Step 1

Place 3 tablespoons of the unsalted butter in a stand mixer. Place 1 cup ricotta cheese, 1 teaspoon buttermilk, and 1/4 teaspoon lemon juice if using in a small bowl and stir to combine. Place 2 ounces cream cheese on the counter if using. Let everything sit at room temperature until the butter is softened.

Step 2

Meanwhile, place 3/4 cup rice flour, 1/2 cup plus 1 tablespoon glutinous rice flour, 2 teaspoons baking powder, and a pinch of kosher salt in a medium bowl and whisk to combine. Peel and cut 1 salted duck egg into about 1/3-inch pieces if using. Crack 2 large eggs into a medium bowl.

Step 3

Arrange a rack in the middle of the oven and heat the oven to 400ºF.

Step 4

Meanwhile, coat the wells of a 24-well mini-muffin pan with cooking spray. Cut 2 banana leaves into 1-inch wide strips, then cut the stripes crosswise into 4-inch long pieces. If desired, place the strips on a baking sheet and lightly torch to release the oils, or slowly fan each strip over the stove flame for a few seconds instead (this step is optional). Press 1 strip across the bottom and up the sides of each muffin well to form a “U’ shape. Trim off any part of the leaf that extends more than 1-inch past the top of the well. Coat the wells again with cooking spray.

Step 5

Beat the butter with the paddle attachment, starting on low speed and increasing to medium-high speed, until pale and glossy. With the mixer still running, gradually add 1/2 cup granulated sugar and beat until combined, scraping down the sides of the bowl as needed, about 3 minutes. Reduce the speed to medium. Pour in the eggs and beat until incorporated, 1 to 2 minutes.

Step 6

Reduce the speed to low. Pour in 3/4 cup coconut milk and 3 tablespoons evaporated or whole milk. Beat, slowly increasing the speed to medium, until a curdled, fluffy batter forms, 1 to 2 minutes. With the mixture on low speed, slowly add the flour mixture and beat until smooth.

Step 7

Fill each muffin well with 1 tablespoon of the batter. Bake until starting to puff, about 3 minutes. Remove the tin from the oven. Drop 1 teaspoon of the ricotta mixture, 1/4 teaspoon of the cream cheese if using, and 1 piece of the salted egg if using into the center of each muffin well and gently press them in. Sprinkle each well lightly with some of the flaky salt (skip this if making just ricotta bibingka) and coarse sugar.

Step 8

Return the pan to the oven and bake until puffed and set, about 8 minutes more. Meanwhile, melt the remaining 1 tablespoon unsalted butter in the microwave or on the stovetop.

Step 9

Remove the tin from the oven. Brush the tops of the bibingka with the melted butter. Let cool 15 minutes before removing from the pan. Repeat assembling and baking the remaining batter (stir before using) in a cooled tin (no need to wash). Remove the banana leaf before eating.