Step 1

Put the pancetta and 1 tablespoon of the oil in a 10-12 inch skillet or saute pan. Place over medium heat. Cook about 5 minutes, until the pancetta is crisp and brown, stirring occasionally. Don't be tempted to turn up the heat — the goal is to render the fat gently without burning.

Step 2

Stir in the onion and cook until softened, 2-3 minutes. Add the garlic, salt, chili flakes and black pepper. Stir and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds.

Step 3

Turn up the heat to medium-high. Pour in the wine and cook until most of the liquid boils away, stirring to scrape up the browned bits on the bottom of the pan. Stir in the tomatoes. Bring to a simmer and cook 15-20 minutes, until the sauce has reduced and thickened.

Step 4

While the sauce is cooking, bring 4-5 quarts of water to a boil in a large pot. Add 1 tablespoon salt per quart of water, then add the bucatini. Cook according to package directions, until al dente. Drain, then add the pasta back to the pot. Add the sauce and toss well to coat with the sauce.

Step 5

Transfer the pasta to a serving bowl and serve with the cheese sprinkled on top.