Step 1

In a large bowl, season the oxtails generously with salt and black pepper and turn to coat. Cover and refrigerate for 8–24 hours.

Step 2

Using paper towels, blot the meat dry. In a large heavy-bottomed pot set over medium-high heat, melt the lard. When it’s hot and shimmering, working in batches if necessary, add the oxtails and cook, turning occasionally, until browned on all sides, about 12 minutes.

Step 3

Add the wine and cook until reduced slightly, about 1 minute, then add the tomatoes and their juices, celery, and salt to taste and bring to a boil. Turn the heat down to maintain a strong simmer, then cover and cook, turning the oxtails every 30 minutes or so, until the meat is falling off the bone, about 3 hours.

Step 4

Using a slotted spoon, transfer the meat to a plate. Place a food mill over a large bowl and, working in batches, purée the sauce (see footnote). Pick the meat off the bones (discarding them) and add it to the bowl with the sauce, then return the ragù to the pot, cover, and turn the heat to low.

Step 5

Bring a large pot of generously salted water to a boil, then add the pasta and cook until al dente, 11–13 minutes. Drain, then return the pasta to the pot and stir in 3 cups of the sauce, or more to taste. (Reserve leftover sauce for another use.) Serve topped with the Pecorino.