Step 1

In a wok or saucepan, over medium heat,melt the butter.

Step 2

Add the garlic and cook; stirring, until fragrant but not browned; about 2 minutes.

Step 3

Add the oyster sauce, soy sauce and fish sauce; stir to combine; remove from the heat.

Step 4

Meanwhile, in a 12-​inch skillet or sauté pan, over high, bring 1-½ inches of water to a boil; alternatively, heat up just enough water to cover the spaghetti in a large Dutch oven or saucepan.

Step 5

Add the pasta; stir a few times to make sure it’s not clumping; cook, stirring occasionally, until just shy of al dente; about 2 minutes short of the recommended cook time on the package.

Step 6

Using tongs, transfer the cooked pasta to the garlic sauce, along with whatever water clings to it; reserve the pasta water in the skillet.

Step 7

Increase the heat to high; add the cheese to the wok; stir with a wooden spatula or spoon and toss vigorously until the sauce is creamy and emulsified; about 30 seconds.

Step 8

If the sauce looks too watery, let it keep reducing; if it looks greasy, splash some more cooking water into it and let it re-​emulsify.

Step 9

Stir in the scallions and serve immediately.