Step 1

STOVETOP: In a large Dutch oven or other heavy pot set over medium-high heat, combine the beans with enough water to cover by 2 inches. Add the onion, garlic, bay leaves, kombu, if using, and salt.

Step 2

Bring the water to a boil. Boil the beans for 10 minutes, then reduce the heat to low so the liquid is barely bubbling, cover, and simmer until the beans are very tender, 60 to 90 minutes or longer. (Periodically check and add more hot water if needed to keep the beans submerged.) Test at least five beans from different parts of the pot to make sure they are tender. Remove and discard the bay leaves, onion (if desired) and, if it hasn’t disintegrated, kombu. Taste, and season with more salt, if needed.

Step 3

OVEN: Using the same timing as on the stovetop, after boiling the beans for 10 minutes, cover, transfer them to a 300-degree oven and bake until the beans are very tender. (If you have a bean pot, which is taller and narrower than a Dutch oven, use it: The bean liquid will be particularly rich.)

Step 4

INSTANT POT OR OTHER PRESSURE COOKER: Increase the water to cover the beans by 3 inches. Lock the lid in place, set the pressure-release knob to sealing, select PRESSURE at the high setting, and set the cook time to 25 minutes. Once the cooking cycle is finished, press CANCEL and release the pressure manually by moving the pressure-release knob to venting, covering your hand with a towel or oven mitt. Never put your hands or face near the vent when releasing steam.

Step 5

Test the beans as directed above. If the beans are undercooked, either bring the machine back to pressure and cook for an additional 5 minutes, then manually release the pressure to check again, or continue to cook the beans uncovered, on the SAUTE function, if using an Instant Pot.

Step 6

When the beans are tender, cook them uncovered for 10 to 20 minutes to reduce and concentrate the broth.