Step 1

Put the flour into a medium bowl. Add the lard and, using your fingers, blend the lard into the flour until the mixture is crumbly and the pieces of lard are pea-sized.

Step 2

In a small bowl, combine the water and salt, stirring until the salt is dissolved. Stir in the starter, if using. Pour the water mixture into the flour mixture. Using a spoon or your hand, stir until well combined. Knead the dough by hand a few times, just until the dough holds together and forms a cohesive ball.

Step 3

Wrap the dough in a clean kitchen towel or beeswax paper, or put it in a sealable container. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours and up to 2 days.

Step 4

Remove the dough from the fridge and unwrap it. Divide the dough into 18 equal pieces, each about the size of a small apricot. Roll the pieces between your palms or against the table until they are evenly round.

Step 5

On a very lightly floured work surface, use your hands to flatten each ball into a disc. Then, using a rolling pin, roll each disc until it is about 6 inches in diameter. (If you have a tortilla press, you can use it to flatten the balls, but you’ll probably want to finish them with a rolling pin anyway—these are best when they are pretty thin.) Transfer each tortilla to a sheet of parchment or waxed paper, stacking the tortillas between sheets of paper so that they are flat and not touching. Freeze the tortillas for about 1 hour.

Step 6

Preheat a cast-iron skillet, griddle, or comal over medium-high heat (if you’re using a cast-iron skillet, you may want to smear a little vegetable oil very lightly on it before preheating). The baking surface needs to be plenty hot, so give it a few minutes to preheat.

Step 7

Griddle the tortillas one at a time until both sides have golden-brown blisters, about 60 seconds per side. The tortillas may puff up a little as they cook, but they will flatten as they cool. Keep the finished tortillas in a covered dish or wrap them in a clean kitchen towel to keep them warm while you work.

Step 8

The tortillas are best served right away. If you have some left over, you can store them in an airtight container for a few days and quickly reheat them in a hot skillet before serving, or freeze for up to 1 month.