Step 1

Cook the sliced potatoes in a large pan of boiling salted water for 10-12 minutes, until just tender but not breaking up. Drain and set aside.

Step 2

Meanwhile, heat the oil in a large, ovenproof frying pan (or an ovenproof dish), then add the onion and cook for 8-10 minutes until translucent. Add the pancetta and cook for another 5 minutes, then stir in the garlic. Continue on the heat, stirring occasionally, until the bacon is cooked through and the onions turn lightly golden.

Step 3

Drain off any excess fat. Raise the heat, then pour the white wine into the pan and add the bay leaf. Cook for a couple of minutes, stirring to deglaze the pan, until the wine has reduced by about a third. Add the cream and simmer until that has reduced by about a third too. Remove the pan from the heat and add the potatoes, stirring carefully to coat them with the creamy mixture - it doesn't matter if they start to break up a little. Remove the bay leaf and season the mixture to taste.

Step 4

Nestle about two-thirds of the chunks of cheese in among the potatoes and onions, then scatter the rest over the top. Transfer the pan to the oven and bake for about 15 minutes at 180°C/Gas Mark 4, until golden brown and bubbling.

Step 5

Leave to settle for a few minutes, then serve with a salad of vinaigrette-dressed Little Gems and a few cornichons to cut through the creaminess of the Reblochon.

Step 6

Enjoy with a Burgundian oaked Chardonnay such as St Véran.