white wine

Lamb Stew

lamb lamb

chicken livers

garlic cloves,

bay leaves

sweet paprika

dry white wine

olive oil,

salt

white pepper

yellow onion,

beef stock

flat-leaf parsley, chopped,

red potatoes, cooked white rice

Pasta With Spicy Sausage, Broccoli Rabe and Chickpeas

Kosher salt and black pepper

broccoli rabe

shaped pasta,

olive oil

garlic cloves, minced (about 1 tablespoon)

dry white wine or chicken stock

chickpeas

unsalted butter

lemon,

The simple, summery dinner is a reminder that in-season produce and fresh seafood shine brightest with little fussing. Seared scallops are paired with cherry tomatoes that are cooked in white wine and butter until they’re falling apart, and the whole thing is finished with a sprinkle of fresh herbs and lemon zest. Equal parts casual and elegant, this dish is best served straight from the skillet, with a big green salad, a nice loaf of bread and the rest of the wine.

Seared Scallops With Jammy Cherry Tomatoes

shallots (about 2 shallots)

dry white wine,

cherry tomatoes,

sea scallops (about

grapeseed oil, plus more as needed

lemon, halved

Julienned fresh basil and mint,

Coarse sea salt,

Heat a large (12-inch) skillet over medium-low and add the butter to melt. Add the shallots and cook, stirring occasionally, for 3 to 5 minutes, until tender but not browned. Add the garlic and cook for 30 seconds to 1 minute, until fragrant.

Add the wine and cook until about half the liquid has evaporated.

Add the tomatoes, 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt and 1/4 teaspoon pepper and cook over medium-heat, stirring occasionally, for 10 to 12 minutes, until the tomatoes have released their juices and almost completely collapsed. Transfer the tomato mixture to a small dish (use a rubber spatula to get every last bit of the sauce!), then carefully wipe out the pan with a damp paper towel.

Pat the scallops dry. Add the grapeseed oil to the skillet and turn the heat to medium-high. When the oil is very hot, add half the scallops, spacing them evenly in the pan, and season with kosher salt. Cook without moving for 2 to 3 minutes, until golden brown on the bottom. Flip and cook for 1 more minute. Don’t overcook! Transfer the scallops to a plate and repeat with the remaining scallops, adding more oil if necessary.

Drain any remaining oil and take the skillet off the heat. Return the tomatoes and their juices to the skillet and squeeze in 1 tablespoon lemon juice. Return the scallops to the skillet, nestling them into the tomatoes. Top with the zest of both lemon halves, julienned basil and mint, and a generous sprinkle of coarse sea salt, and serve immediately.

This recipe, like so many great straightforward, inexpensive go-tos, starts with little more than a can of beans — then transforms it into a luxurious meal. Jack Monroe, the British food writer, uses a classic beurre blanc to do that work, simmering a splash of wine, vinegar and butter together, then tipping it into a pot of boiling beans and pasta, letting the liquid reduce to a starchy, nearly creamy consistency. If you think of beurre blanc as fancy and fussy, this simple, unexpected use for it may change your mind. You can also build on the basic recipe, adding a bunch of chopped chard or mustard greens in with the sauce, or covering the top with torn herbs.

Cannellini-Bean Pasta With Beurre Blanc

cannellini beans,

stock

white wine vinegar

shallot

pasta,

Parmesan, Pecorino Romano

Add the beans and stock to a large pot, and bring to a boil. Turn the heat down, and let simmer for 20 minutes.

While the beans cook, combine the wine, vinegar, shallot and butter in a small saucepan. Simmer over medium-low for about 15 minutes, shaking the pan as the liquid reduces to keep it from burning. Turn off the heat, and set the beurre blanc aside.

Stir the pasta into the beans and cook, stirring occasionally, until the pasta is cooked through, about 10 more minutes. Stir in the beurre blanc, and season generously with salt and pepper. Serve with a little grated cheese on top.

Here, I paired fillets with a seasonal treat: fresh local blueberries.

The berries would have been cloying with the fish by themselves, so I simmered them with white wine and vinegar, creating a sweet-and-sour sauce inspired by Italian agrodolce.

The bracing blueberry agrodolce would have worked wonderfully on other fish, especially oily ones like mackerel and swordfish. I could also see spooning it over boneless chicken thighs before roasting, or pairing it with meaty pork tenderloin or chops that have just come off the grill in all their smoky glory.

Salmon With Agrodolce Blueberries

(8-ounce) salmon

Sea salt, as needed

Vegetable oil

shallots, peeled and very thinly sliced

springs fresh thyme

cinnamon sticks, broken

blueberries

honey

Black pepper

Run your fingers over the salmon flesh and pull out any pinbones. Season fish generously with salt and let rest at room temperature while you prepare the sauce.

Heat the oven to 400 degrees. Oil a large baking sheet.

In a medium saucepan over low heat, simmer together shallots, wine, vinegar, thyme, cinnamon and a pinch of salt until most of the liquid has evaporated, 15 to 20 minutes. Toss in blueberries, butter and honey; cook until berries soften and turn the sauce pink, 2 to 4 minutes.

Place salmon on baking sheet. Spoon berry mixture over salmon and season with pepper. Bake until salmon is cooked to desired doneness, 8 to 10 minutes for medium-rare.

Shrimp get along well with garlic, butter and lemon, and so do tomatoes and corn. Combine them, and you get a summery <a href="https://cooking.nytimes.com/recipes/9101-classic-shrimp-scampi">shrimp scampi</a> that comes together in one skillet. A searing hot pan helps the tomatoes blister and the corn caramelize before they are coated in a garlic-lemon butter sauce. This is a meal in and of itself, but if you want to serve it with pasta or bread, they’d be welcome additions.

Summer Shrimp Scampi With Tomatoes and Corn

shrimp,

cherry tomatoes

corn kernels (from 4 ears)

red-pepper flakes

lemon juice

unsalted butter,

parsley basil leaves

Pat the shrimp very dry and season with salt and pepper. In a large (12-inch) skillet, heat the olive oil over medium-high. Add the shrimp and cook until pink and lightly golden in spots, 1 to 2 minutes per side. Use a slotted spoon to transfer the shrimp to a plate.

Add the tomatoes to the skillet, season with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring just once or twice, until they start to blister in spots, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the corn, season with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring just once or twice, until the tomatoes burst and the corn is golden in spots, 3 to 4 minutes.

Add the garlic and red-pepper flakes and cook, stirring, until you smell garlic, about 1 minute.

Reduce heat to medium, and add the wine and lemon juice, scraping any brown bits from the bottom of the pan. Cook until nearly evaporated, then add the butter and stir until melted. Add the shrimp and its juices and stir until warmed through. (If the sauce breaks and looks greasy, add 1 or 2 teaspoons of water and stir until emulsified.)

Remove from heat, add the herbs, season to taste with salt and pepper, and serve with extra lemon for squeezing over, if you like.

Scampi are tiny, lobster-like crustaceans with pale pink shells (also called langoustines). Italian cooks in the United States swapped shrimp for scampi, but kept both names. Thus the dish was born, along with inevitable variations. 

This classic recipe makes a simple garlic, white wine and butter sauce that goes well with a pile of pasta or with a hunk of crusty bread. However you make the dish, once the shrimp are added to the pan, the trick is to cook them just long enough that they turn pink all over, but not until their bodies curl into rounds with the texture of tires.

Classic Shrimp Scampi

butter

kosher salt,

red pepper flakes,

black pepper

parsley

lemon

pasta bread

In a large skillet, melt butter with olive oil. Add garlic and sauté until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add wine or broth, salt, red pepper flakes and plenty of black pepper and bring to a simmer. Let wine reduce by half, about 2 minutes.

Add shrimp and sauté until they just turn pink, 2 to 4 minutes depending upon their size. Stir in the parsley and lemon juice and serve over pasta or accompanied by crusty bread.

Melissa Clark creates a classically tasty shrimp scampi.

Shrimp Scampi

Beurre Blanc recipe | Epicurious.com

white-wine vinegar

heavy cream

white pepper,

Radishes with Tarragon Beurre Blanc recipe | Epicurious.com

(6 tablespoons) cold unsalted butter, cut into tablespoons

tarragon

radishes (preferably with tops)

Coarse sea salt

Miso-Butter Roast Chicken With Acorn Squash Panzanella recipe | Epicurious.com

chicken

2¾ tsp. kosher salt, divided,

acorn squash (about 3 lb. total)

Tbsp. finely chopped sage

Tbsp. finely chopped rosemary

melted,

allspice

red pepper flakes

apples

Tbsp. olive oil

red onion, thinly sliced

Tbsp. apple cider vinegar

Tbsp. white miso

all-purpose flour

Tbsp. unsalted butter, room temperature

unsalted chicken broth

white miso

Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper

Think of this as the most luxurious Hamburger Helper you’ve ever had. It’s how Mark Rosati, the culinary director of Shake Shack, turns leftover ground beef into a complete weeknight dinner. The entire dish — even the pasta — is made in one pot, and melds the indelible comfort of macaroni and cheese with the complexity of a good Bolognese. This definitely has a kick, so adjust the hot sauce according to taste.

Homemade Hamburger Helper

neutral oil, such as canola or vegetable

yellow onion, diced into 1/2-inch pieces

smoked bacon, finely chopped

beef

chicken stock

hot sauce

hot smoked paprika

bay leaf

elbow pasta

American cheese, ripped into small pieces

Cheddar

chives

Heat a large (12-inch) sauté pan or Dutch oven over medium-low heat, and add oil and onion; season lightly with salt and pepper. (The hot sauce added in Step 6 will add a lot of flavor, so be careful not to overseason here.) Let cook until the onions turn light beige in color and begin to caramelize, 20 to 25 minutes.

Add garlic, and cook until fragrant and starting to brown ever so slightly, about 2 minutes.

Increase heat to medium-high and add bacon and ground beef, using the back of a large spoon to break up the meat into smaller pieces. Continue to cook until the liquid has mostly evaporated and the meat starts to sear and develop a crust on the bottom of the pan, 12 to 15 minutes.

Remove pan from the heat and carefully drain off most of the fat, leaving a little in the pan to keep the meat moist.

Return pan to the medium-high heat and add white wine, allowing it to reduce until the mixture is almost dry, about 10 minutes.

Add the chicken stock, heavy cream, hot sauce, paprika and bay leaf to the pan. Mix until combined and bring to a boil over medium-high.

Once the mixture is boiling, add the pasta and cook until al dente, stirring often, about 9 minutes.

Reduce the heat to low and stir in both types of cheese, stirring until completely melted and sauce is thickened.

Remove the pan from heat, stir in chives and season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve immediately.

You can use this sauce — spicy and fragrant and slightly syrupy, what the Italians call agrodolce — on pork chops as I call for here, or on <a href="https://cooking.nytimes.com/recipes/1020700-veal-chops-in-cherry-pepper-sauce">veal chops</a>, on steaks, on chicken. I bet it’d be good on grilled seitan or drizzled over tofu. The recipe is reminiscent of the cooking at red-sauce emporia like Bamonte’s in Brooklyn, Rao’s in Manhattan, Dominick’s in the Bronx and, I hope, <a href="https://www.nytimes.com/2013/06/05/dining/reviews/restaurant-review-carbone-in-manhattan.html">Carbone</a> in Greenwich Village, where I first learned how to put it together at the elbow of the chef Mario Carbone. Serve with spaghetti dressed in butter and Parmesan, with garlic bread, with a spoon so you can slurp what’s left on the plate. “It’s a flavor that’s purely Italian-American,” Carbone told me. “You won’t find it in Italy, no way.”

Pork Chops in Cherry-Pepper Sauce

(16-ounce) cherry peppers

salt and black pepper,

bone-in pork chops,

neutral oil, like canola or grapeseed

salted butter

flat-leaf parsley,

Make the sauce: Drain the cherry peppers, reserving 1 cup brine, then stem, halve, core and seed them. Place a large skillet over medium-high heat, and swirl the olive oil into it. When the oil begins to shimmer, add the garlic, and sauté, stirring frequently, until it begins to color, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the peppers, the reserved brine and the white wine, and bring to a boil over high heat. Cook until the liquid has reduced by slightly more than half, 10 to 15 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper, and remove from the heat. (The sauce can be made a few hours ahead of time.)

When you’re ready to cook the meat, season it aggressively with salt and pepper. Place a large, heavy-bottomed skillet over medium-high heat, and swirl the neutral oil into it. When the oil begins to shimmer, place the meat in the pan, working in batches if needed, and sear until the meat has browned, formed something of a crust and cooked through to medium-rare, 5 to 6 minutes on each side. Transfer the chops to a warmed platter.

Add the sauce to the large, heavy-bottomed skillet in which you seared the meat, and warm over medium-low heat. Whisk the butter into the sauce until evenly distributed and the sauce develops a velvety sheen. Spoon sauce over chops, and garnish with parsley.

When it comes to short ribs, you have choices. Boneless short ribs are easier to serve to a crowd and can be substituted pound for pound in your grandmother’s time-honored brisket recipe.

Bone-in short ribs require a very large pot and are somewhat more awkward to plate. The upside is that they have even more flavor because the marrow that seeps out of the bones seasons the sauce.

You can buy them either cut across the bone, called flanken, or along the bones, often called English style — the way it is done in fancy restaurants. You’ll need about three-quarters of a pound of bone-in short ribs per person. If you cook the beef the day before and chill it overnight, you’ll be able to lift off much of the fat that hardens on top of the sauce.

Vermouth-Braised Short Ribs

bone-in short ribs,

salt and black pepper

olive oil, more as needed

shallots, 6 finely chopped, 2 thinly sliced

garlic cloves, finely chopped

leeks,

celery ribs, finely chopped (save leaves for garnish)

(750-milliliter) bottle white wine, not too dry

chicken broth,

dry vermouth

thyme

rosemary

carrots,

Flaky sea salt,

chives,

fresh mint, leaves roughly chopped

If you have time, the night before or several hours before cooking, season the meat generously with the salt and pepper (you will need at least a tablespoon salt and 1 1/2 teaspoons pepper). Wrap and refrigerate until needed. (You could do this just before cooking, if necessary.)

Heat oven to 325 degrees. In a very large Dutch oven over medium-high heat, warm 2 tablespoons of the olive oil. Working in batches, arrange as many of the short ribs as fit comfortably in a single layer and brown on all sides. Take your time with this and let them get good and brown, and don’t crowd the pot or else they will steam and never develop a tasty, caramelized crust. Transfer the ribs to a bowl once they have browned, and add more oil to the pot as needed.

Add another 2 tablespoons of the oil to the pot if it looks dry, and stir in the chopped shallots, garlic, leeks, celery and a large pinch of salt and pepper. Cook the vegetables until softened, about 7 minutes, stirring constantly and scraping up the browned bits on the bottom. Add the wine, chicken broth and vermouth, and simmer until the liquid is reduced by half, 10 to 15 minutes.

Arrange the short ribs in the liquid in the pot. Using kitchen twine, tie together the thyme, parsley stems and rosemary, and drop into the pot. Bring the liquid to a simmer on the stove, then cover and transfer the pot to the oven. Cook, turning the ribs every 45 minutes or so, until the meat is tender but not yet falling off the bone, about 2 hours. Add the carrots and let cook until tender, about 30 minutes longer.

Use a slotted spoon to remove the short ribs and most of the carrots. Discard the herb bunch. Bring the liquid to a simmer, reducing it until it thickens slightly. If serving right away, spoon off some of the fat from the surface of the sauce. Or pour the sauce back over the meat and chill overnight in the pot, then spoon off the fat. Reheat if necessary.

To serve, combine the sliced shallots, vinegar and honey in a bowl. Place short ribs on a platter and top with some of the sauce. Sprinkle with the flaky salt, chives, mint, parsley leaves and celery leaves, and scatter the shallots and vinegar mixture over the top.

If you haven't cooked a whole leg of lamb before, here is the place to start. This is not a revolutionary recipe, but slathering on butter and (take our word for it) anchovies makes this version truly essential. It is excellent for the Easter feast — lamb has ancient associations with springtime, and it pairs well with sharp spring vegetables like asparagus, dandelion greens and artichokes. Lamb is also popular for Passover, but the leg is not considered kosher unless the sciatic nerve is removed. Some kosher butchers offer that, but we also give options for other cuts like shoulder and double loin. The butter can be replaced by duck or goose fat, or olive oil, but the gravy (made from pan drippings) will need to be adjusted. For roasting, meaty American lamb is preferable to cuts from Australia and New Zealand. Most American lambs are fed both grass and grain, yielding meat that is fine-grained, earthy and mild.

<a href="http://cooking.nytimes.com/68861692/939264-easter-lamb">More Easter lamb recipes</a> and <a href="http://www.nytimes.com/video/magazine/100000000773719/carving-lamb.html">how to carve a leg of lamb.</a>

Roast Lamb

lamb

anchovies Dijon mustard

unsalted butter, softened

white wine,

Heat oven to 425 degrees. Use a small sharp knife to make about a dozen incisions, each  about 2 inches deep, through the fat that covers the top of the meat. Using a mortar and pestle or a blender, blend 2/3 of the anchovies (or 2/3 of the mustard if using), the rosemary leaves and the garlic cloves into a chunky paste. Using your fingers, press paste deeply into incisions.

Mix remaining anchovies (or mustard) and the butter into a paste. Smear this mixture all over the surface of the roast. Season liberally with black pepper. (Do not add salt; the anchovies are salty enough, and so is the mustard.) Place the lamb on a rack in a roasting pan, fat side up, and squeeze the lemon halves over. Pour the wine around the roast into the pan.

Roast 15 minutes, then reduce heat to 350 degrees and roast until internal temperature reaches 130 to 135 degrees (for medium-rare or medium meat), about another 60 to 90 minutes. Baste every 20 minutes or so with the wine and drippings in the pan, adding more wine as needed to keep the liquid from scorching. If possible, for the last 15 minutes of cooking, use convection or a broiler to crisp the fat on the roast.

Remove pan from the oven, remove rack from the pan, and let the roast rest on the rack for at least 15 to 20 minutes in a warm place, tented with foil. The internal temperature will rise to about 140 to 145 degrees.

To make sauce from the pan drippings, remove a few tablespoons of fat by tipping the pan and spooning off the top layer. Put the pan over medium heat until the liquid simmers. Taste the simmering liquid and whisk in more wine, 1/4 cup at a time, until the consistency and flavor are right. Do not let the mixture become syrupy; it should be a sharp jus, not a thick gravy.

<a href="http://www.nytimes.com/video/magazine/100000000773719/carving-lamb.html">Carve lamb </a> into 1/2-inch-thick slices and arrange on a heated platter, decorated with rosemary sprigs. Serve with piping hot gravy.

Julia Moskin roasts lamb slathered in a mixture of butter, anchovies, rosemary and garlic.

Recipe Lab: Roast Lamb

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