The Pantry Pasta From Palermo: A Different Kind of Tomato Sauce

For the Toasted Breadcrumbs: If using fresh or lightly stale bread, adjust oven rack to middle position, and preheat oven to 325°F (165°C). (If using fully stale and dried bread, skip baking step.) Arrange bread in single layer on rimmed baking sheet, and bake until completely dried, 20 to 30 minutes. Remove from oven, and allow to cool to room temperature, about 5 minutes. Transfer bread to food processor bowl (set aside but don't clean rimmed baking sheet), and pulse until reduced to small crumbs, taking care not to over-process into a fine powder, 8 to 10 pulses. Combine breadcrumbs and 1 tablespoon (15ml) oil in a large skillet, and cook over medium-low heat, stirring and tossing occasionally, until crisp and golden brown, 8 to 10 minutes. Season lightly with salt. Transfer toasted breadcrumbs to reserved rimmed baking sheet, spread into an even layer, and set aside to cool to room temperature. Once cool, set aside 1/2 cup (60g) toasted breadcrumbs for the pasta, and transfer remaining crumbs to an airtight container for future use; the extra breadcrumbs can be stored at room temperature for up to 2 weeks. For the Pasta: Bring a large pot of water to a boil over high heat, and season very lightly with salt; use a ratio of 1 tablespoon (12g) of Diamond Crystal kosher salt per 1 gallon (4L) of water. Meanwhile, in a large skillet, heat 3 tablespoons (45ml) oil over medium heat until shimmering. Add onion and garlic and cook, stirring frequently, until softened but not browned, 5 to 7 minutes. Add anchovies and cook, stirring and breaking up anchovies occasionally with a wooden spoon or rubber spatula, until anchovies have dissolved, about 4 minutes. Add tomato estratto or paste, stir to combine with allium-anchovy mixture, and continue to cook until mixture turns dark brick red and is very dry, 2 to 4 minutes longer. Transfer 1 cup (240ml) boiling water from pot to skillet to loosen tomato-anchovy mixture, and stir until it becomes homogenous and saucy. Reduce heat on skillet to lowest possible setting, to just keep sauce warm; if your burner can only be reduced to a simmer, then turn heat off entirely. Cook pasta in the pot of boiling water until just softened on the exterior, but well shy of al dente, and still uncooked in the center (2 to 3 minutes less than the package directs). Using tongs, transfer pasta to sauce, along with 1/2 cup (120ml) pasta cooking water. Alternatively, drain pasta using a colander or fine-mesh strainer, making sure to reserve at least 1 cup (240ml) pasta cooking water. Increase heat to high and cook, stirring and tossing rapidly, until pasta is al dente and sauce coats noodles and just pools around the edges of the pan, about 2 minutes, adding more pasta cooking water in 1/4 cup (60ml) increments as needed. Add raisins and pine nuts (if using), half of the breadcrumbs (1/4 cup; 30g), and toss to combine. Pasta should be well-coated but not swimming in sauce (this dish is meant to have a slightly drier consistency than typical sauced pastas). Adjust sauce consistency as needed with more pasta water if it seems too dry, or an additional small handful of breadcrumbs if it seems too loose. Remove from heat, divide pasta between individual serving bowls, sprinkle with remaining breadcrumbs, and serve right away.