Step 1

In a medium saucepan, whisk together the cornstarch, salt, and sugar.

Step 2

Add the milk, cream and vanilla bean and scrapings (if using) and bring to a boil over medium heat, whisking frequently (you will have to stop whisking to verify that it is boiling; there will be fat bubbles that pop gloopily). While you whisk, make sure to scrape the entire bottom of the pot, including the corners. When you see the gloopy bubbles, reduce the heat to medium-low to maintain a simmer and continue cooking for 1 1/2 minutes (set a timer). The pudding should be the texture of a loose yogurt, or warm caramel sauce.

Step 3

Turn off the heat and whisk in the butter (and vanilla paste/extract, if using).

Step 4

Fish out the vanilla pod (or strain the pudding into a measuring pitcher if at all lumpy) and divide the pudding between 4 heat. (You can rinse the vanilla pod, let it dry, and stick it in a bottle of booze or a jar of sugar, if you like.)

Step 5

Pudding skin is an area of some disagreement, with supporters of either side, pro-skin and anti-skin, debating their points heatedly. As for me, I just cover the cups loosely with beeswax wrap or plastic wrap (not pressed onto the surface of the pudding) and mine don't form a skin.

Step 6

Chill the puddings until cold and set, at least 1 1/2 hours or up to 4 days. Serve with a dollop of whipped cream and a few flecks of flaky salt.