Step 1

Preheat the oven to 425˚ F. Arrange two racks evenly spaced in the oven.

Step 2

In a medium (4 1/2-inch-diameter by 6-inch-high) saucepan, heat the milk, butter, 1 teaspoon salt and 1 teaspoon pepper over medium heat, just until the milk is scalded (see Cook’s Note). Add the flour all at once and beat it vigorously with a wooden spoon until the mixture comes together. Lower the heat and cook, stirring constantly, for 2 minutes. Dump the mixture into the bowl of a food processor fitted with the steel blade. Immediately add the eggs, 1/2 cup of Pecorino and the Parmesan and pulse until the eggs and cheeses are completely incorporated.

Step 3

Working in batches, spoon the mixture into a large pastry bag fitted with a plain 5/8-inch round pastry tip. Pipe the dough in mounds 1 1/4 inches wide and 3/4 inch high (1 inch apart) on two sheet pans lined with parchment paper. (They should look like huge Hershey’s Kisses.) With a wet finger, lightly press down the swirl on top of each puff. (You can also use two spoons to scoop the mixture and shape the puffs.) Brush the top of each puff lightly with the egg wash and sprinkle with Pecorino, salt and pepper. Bake for 15 to 20 minutes, until browned. Rotate the pans halfway through so they brown evenly. Serve hot.