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Step 1
Combine spices and sugar with 1 tbsp sea salt flakes in a bowl, season generously with freshly ground black pepper, then rub well into brisket. Wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate to cure (6 hours-overnight).
Step 2
Preheat oven to 150C. Place brisket, fat-side up, on an oiled wire rack in a large roasting pan. Add 500ml water to pan, cover tightly with foil and roast for 5 hours. Transfer brisket to a clean roasting pan, fat-side up.
Step 3
Preheat a coal-bedded barbecue to low heat and set up for indirect grilling (see note). Place pan with brisket in centre. Add one-quarter of woodchips, half on each side of barbecue, cover and smoke, basting meat occasionally with pan juices, until brisket is tender enough to shred with your fingers (3-4 hours; add more coals and woodchips to barbecue every hour).
Step 4
Meanwhile, for barbecue sauce, process onion, chilli and garlic in a food processor until finely chopped. Heat oil in a large saucepan over medium-high heat, add onion mixture and sauté until very tender (8-10 minutes), add remaining ingredients and 250ml water and simmer until thick and well flavoured (12-15 minutes). Season generously and adjust vinegar and sugar to taste, then transfer to sterile bottles. Makes 600ml. Sauce will keep refrigerated for 1 month. Bring to room temperature before serving.
Step 5
Coarsely shred brisket and serve warm with soft rolls, coleslaw and barbecue sauce.