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prepRecommended pasta: It’s impossible to say “all’amatriciana” without thinking “bucatini.” The two are as indivisible as Romeo and Juliet. But other couplings of the sauce, such as with penne or rigatoni or conchiglie, can be nearly as successful. Put the oil, butter, and onion in a saucepan and turn on the heat to medium. Sauté the onion until it becomes colored a pale gold, then add the pancetta. Cook for about 1 minute, stirring once or twice. Add the tomatoes, the chili pepper, and salt, and cook in the uncovered pan at a steady, gently simmer for 25 minutes. Taste and correct for salt and hot pepper. Toss the pasta with the sauce, then add both cheeses, and toss thoroughly again.
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