Step 1

Prepare the following, adding each to the same small bowl as it is completed: Dice 1/4 large red onion (about 3/4 cup). Peel and mince 1/2 head garlic (about 2 tablespoons). Add 1 1/2 teaspoons whole black peppercorns to the bowl.

Step 2

Thinly slice 1 medium scallion and reserve for garnish. Trim the stems from 2 ounces fresh shiitake mushrooms.

Step 3

Heat 2 tablespoons canola or coconut oil in a Dutch oven or large heavy-bottomed pot over medium-high heat until shimmering. Meanwhile, line a wire rack with a paper towel. Pat 3 pounds chicken drumsticks or thighs dry with paper towels.

Step 4

Working in 2 batches, add the chicken to the pan and sear until browned on both sides, 5 to 7 minutes per batch. Transfer to the paper towel. Use a fork to poke holes in the meaty parts and a paring knife to make slits in the skin of the seared chicken.

Step 5

Add the onion mixture to the pot (no need to drain the fat) and cook over medium heat until browned, about 3 minutes. Add 3/4 cup spiced vinegar and scrape up the browned bits from the bottom of the pot with a wooden spoon. Add 1/2 cup soy sauce, 1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons packed light brown sugar, and 4 dried bay leaves. Stir until the sugar is dissolved and bring to a simmer.

Step 6

Return the chicken skin-side up to the pot, arranging it in an even layer. Arrange the mushrooms on top, wedging them in between the chicken. Bring back to a simmer.

Step 7

Cover and reduce the heat as needed to maintain a simmer. Cook until the meat is pulling away from the bones and the thickest part of the chicken registers at least 165ºF, rotating the chicken on top to the bottom of the pot halfway through if not in a single layer, about 30 minutes total.

Step 8

Taste and season the sauce with more vinegar, soy sauce, or brown sugar as needed - it should be vinegary, salty, and have a hint of sweetness. (Adobo tastes better made a day ahead and reheated.) Garnish with the scallions and 1 tablespoon fried garlic. Serve the chicken and sauce over rice, discarding the bay leaves as you come across them.