Step 1

To prepare dumpling filling: Combine ground chicken, chopped shiitakes, scallions, ginger, pepper, salt, Shaoxing (or sherry), soy sauce, canola oil (or other oil) and sesame oil in a medium bowl. Vigorously stir and fold with a fork or spatula to make a cohesive, thick mixture with no visible large chunks of meat. Cover and let stand at room temperature for 30 minutes. You should have about 2 cups of filling.

Step 2

Meanwhile, prepare sauce: Mince garlic, then mash with the flat side of a chef's knife (or use a garlic press). Place the garlic in a small bowl; stir in soy sauce, vinegar and 2 teaspoons chile oil. Taste and add heat with more chile oil, if desired. Pour one-third (about 2 1/2 tablespoons) of the sauce onto a serving platter. Set aside near the stove with the remaining sauce.

Step 3

Half-fill a large (5- or 6-quart) pot with water, bring to a boil, then lower the heat and cover to keep hot. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper and dust generously with flour; set aside for holding the filled dumplings.

Step 4

Lay 4 to 6 dumpling wrappers on a clean work surface. Brush the edges of the wrappers with water. For each dumpling, hold a wrapper in a slightly cupped hand. Use a dinner knife or teaspoon to scoop up about 1 1/2 teaspoons of filling (the amount depends on the wrapper size). Place the filling slightly off-center toward the upper half of the wrapper. Shape it into a flat mound and keep a knuckle's length (3/4 inch) of wrapper clear on all sides. Bring up the wrapper edge closest to you to close, then firmly press to seal well and create a half-moon. You can leave the dumplings like this, or, for a fancier look, form two small pleats near the center, pressing firmly to hold, or make a series of large pleats at the rim from one end to the other, firmly pressing into place.

Step 5

Place the shaped dumpling on a prepared baking sheet. Repeat, spacing the dumplings 1/2 inch apart. Keep the finished ones covered with a dry kitchen towel to keep them from drying out.

Step 6

Return the water to a gentle boil; add half of the dumplings, gently dropping each in; use a slotted spoon or spider to nudge them to prevent sticking. Let the dumplings cook until they float to the surface and are translucent (the filling is fuzzily visible) and the wrapper is chewy-tender, 6 to 8 minutes. If the water returns to a boil, reduce the heat (a hard boil can make dumplings burst open). Scoop out the cooked dumplings with a slotted spoon, letting excess water drip off. Arrange the dumplings on the prepared platter and cover with a large inverted bowl to keep warm.

Step 7

Return the water to a gentle boil and repeat with the remaining dumplings. Drizzle the reserved sauce onto the dumplings; use two large spoons to gently toss. Sprinkle with cilantro, if desired, and serve immediately.