Step 1

In a dry skillet heated on high, toast the ancho chiles on each side for about 10 seconds or just until they start to puff. Fill the skillet with enough water to cover. Leave the heat on until the water begins to boil and then turn off the heat and let the chiles soak until soft, about 30 minutes. Once hydrated, discard the soaking water, rinse the chiles well, then place into a blender.

Step 2

To make the chili, in a medium saucepan, warm the bacon grease over medium-low heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for 30 seconds longer. Turn off the heat. Transfer the onion and garlic to a blender with the chiles. Add the tomatoes, oregano, cumin, allspice, cayenne, and water. Blend until smooth.

Step 3

Add the ground beef to the pan and season it with the salt and black pepper. Cook over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally, until browned, about 10 minutes. Pour in the chile puree. Turn the heat to high, bring the mixture to a boil, then turn down the heat and simmer, uncovered, for 30 to 45 minutes, stirring occasionally, until thickened and fragrant. If the chili gets too dry, add more water. Taste and adjust the seasonings, if you like.

Step 4

To make the queso, in another medium saucepan, combine the cheese and tomatoes. Cook over low heat, stirring occasionally, until the cheese has melted.

Step 5

Transfer the queso to a serving bowl, a slow cooker, or a chafing dish over a flame. Spoon the chili into the center of the queso and top with the pickled jalapeños and onion. Serve warm with tortilla chips.