For Healthy Vietnamese Recipes, This Gen X Chef Consulted a Master: Mom - WSJ

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Food & Drink

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Grill the eggplant steaks: Tear off flaps from eggplant stem ends, then cut off stems and a slice from butt ends. If you’re using medium eggplants, cut crosswise into circles, each about ⅝ inch thick. If your eggplant is bigger, halve it lengthwise, then cut crosswise into ⅝-inch-thick half moons.Place eggplant in a very large bowl, season with ¼ teaspoon salt, and toss with 3-4 tablespoons canola oil to coat lightly. Set a cast-iron stovetop grill over high heat and lightly brush with canola oil. Or prepare a medium-hot charcoal grill, or preheat a gas grill to medium-high. In batches, grill eggplant until just cooked through, 4-6 minutes per side. (A knife tip inserted should meet little or no resistance.) Transfer eggplant to a baking sheet or plate, and let cool to room temperature.Make the garlicky green oil: In a small microwavable bowl, stir together scallions, garlic, 2 tablespoons canola oil and salt. Microwave on high until bubbly and fragrant, 45-60 seconds. Stir, then let cool to lukewarm. Stir in 1½ tablespoons fish sauce, water and chiles. Taste, and if needed, add enough of remaining fish sauce to pack a punch. As an alternative to microwaving, place oil in a small saucepan and set over medium heat. When a scallion piece gently sizzles upon contact, stir in remaining scallions, garlic and salt, and cook until solids soften, 30 seconds. Let cool briefly, then finish as directed.To serve, arrange eggplant steaks on a plate. Spoon all the green oil overtop. Eggplant can be grilled and then refrigerated in an airtight container up to 3 days. Return to room temperature and microwave on high 45-60 seconds before assembling.

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Make the nước chấm dipping sauce: In a small bowl, stir together water, agave syrup, vinegar and lime juice. Taste to make sure there’s a good tart-sweet foundation. As needed, add sweetener and vinegar or juice in ½-teaspoon increments; you may need more than what is called for, depending on the citrus, sweetener and your palate. Dilute with a splash of water if you go too far. When you’re satisfied, add the fish sauce. Is it salty enough? If not, add more fish sauce 1 teaspoon at a time. (This sauce base may be refrigerated in a capped jar for up to 1 month. Taste again, and if needed, squeeze in citrus juice or add fish sauce to freshen.)Add extras, if using: Add chile-garlic sauce for heat, garlic for pungency and carrot for color, slight crunch and a touch of sweetness.Prepare the sesame scallion oil: In a small microwavable bowl, stir together scallions, salt, baking soda, if using, canola oil and sesame oil. Microwave on high power until mixture bubbles and the onions just soften, 45-60 seconds (Alternatively, combine canola oil and sesame oil in a small saucepan and set over medium heat until a scallion piece gently sizzles upon contact. Stir in remaining scallions, salt and baking soda, if using, and cook until things soften, 30 seconds.) Let cool to room temperature.Cook the topping: Set a 10-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat, and add the 1 tablespoon canola oil. When the oil nearly ripples, add shallots and cook, stirring, until they turn soft and sweetly fragrant, 1-2 minutes. Add shiitake mushrooms, diced jicama, pepper and Maggi. Splash in 2 tablespoons water, cover, and steam-sauté until raw veggies are nearly done, about 5 minutes. Uncover toward the end to finish cooking and concentrate flavor. Let topping cool 10 minutes. Season with salt. (You can prep the sesame scallion oil and shiitake topping up to 3 days ahead. Refrigerate separately and return to room temperature before using.)Steam the bread: Fill a wide pot, such as a 6-quart Dutch oven, with water to about ½ inch deep, and set a collapsible metal steamer inside. (Or, set up a Chinese steamer, filling the bottom pot halfway with water.) Bring to a boil over high heat, then slightly lower heat to steady the steam.Meanwhile, cut bread crosswise into scant ¾-inch-thick slices. In batches, steam bread, cut-sides down, until soft and warm, 3-5 minutes. Transfer steamed bread to a platter and cover with a dish towel to keep warm. (If you’re using a collapsible steamer, position the bread on the upward-sloping side to keep it from touching the water.)Assemble and serve: Divide scallions and their oil among the slices of bread, crown with shiitake topping and sprinkle with nuts and fried shallots. Arrange lettuce and herbs on a platter and nước chấm dipping sauce in a communal bowl for guests to portion out for themselves. (Or, put the sauce in individual rice bowls or bigger dipping-sauce bowls.) Tuck a piece of bread and its topping inside a lettuce leaf and add some herbs. Bundle it up, dunk in the sauce and munch away.

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Put dried mushrooms in a small bowl and add hot water to cover by ½ inch. Let soak until softened, about 15 minutes.Meanwhile, ready a food processor with the largest shredder blade attached. Add kohlrabi and carrot, and shred into the longest strands possible. Hand-cut any leftover pieces. Transfer vegetables to a large bowl, and add salt and sugar. Using both hands, massage strands for about 45 seconds, until they turn wet and limp and a pool of liquid appears in the bowl. Add water, swish around, and then drain in a colander. Wipe bowl dry. Standing over the sink and using a dish towel, wring out moisture from vegetables by the handful, depositing crisp strands back in bowl. Avoid crushing strands with too much pressure.Drain soaked mushrooms and squeeze them with your hands to expel excess water. Cut mushrooms into strips about ⅓ inch wide and add to bowl of vegetables. Set aside.Sear the tofu: Slice tofu into 8 or 9 thin squarish slabs. (Extra-firm pieces can approach ½ inch thick; super-firm pieces can be about ⅓ inch thick.) In a 12-inch nonstick skillet, combine soy sauce and 1 tablespoon water. Add tofu and turn twice to coat well. Set skillet over medium heat, and after gentle bubbling begins, use a thin spatula to turn the tofu.When liquid is no longer visible in skillet, drizzle in neutral oil and shake skillet to coat underside of the tofu. Increase heat to medium-high and cook to sear and brown the tofu slabs, turning now and then, until they are a lovely rich brown, 6-8 minutes. Transfer tofu to a cooling rack (or lean them against the rim of a plate or baking sheet), so air can circulate while they cool and dry, about 10 minutes. Cut tofu into narrow strips. (You can prep the vegetables and tofu up to 2 days in advance and refrigerate them separately; bring them to room temp before tossing.)Make the dressing and finish the salad: In a small bowl, stir together lime juice, fish sauce and agave syrup. Taste, and if needed, add up to 1½ teaspoons fish sauce or agave syrup for a pleasing tart-sweet-salty finish. Stir in garlic and chile.Use a mortar and pestle to pound sesame seeds to a coarse, aromatic mixture. (Alternatively, pulse in a small food processor.) Scrape pounded sesame into vegetable bowl, then add tofu and herbs. Pour in dressing, and toss until it has been absorbed. Pile salad onto a plate and serve.