Step 1

Use a potato peeler to pare strips off the aubergine, so it looks like a zebra crossing.

Step 2

Cut the aubergine into 2cm chunks, put them in a bowl and toss with olive oil and a good pinch of salt.

Step 3

You now have two choices.

Step 4

The first is to fry the aubergine cubes in a large frying pan over a medium-low heat, moving them around regularly, until they start softening.

Step 5

Then add a dash of water and cover so they half-fry/half-braise, until very soft.

Step 6

Add a generous pinch of chilli flakes, the garlic, a squeeze of lemon juice and a bit more oil and salt, if you think it needs it.

Step 7

Cook for a minute more, so it is creamy not watery.

Step 8

The other way is to spread the aubergine cubes on a baking tray and bake at 170C (150C fan)/340F/gas 3½ for 20-30 minutes, turning halfway, until soft and just a little golden (you don’t want them to be crisp).

Step 9

Tip the cubes into a frying pan, mash gently and, as before, add a generous pinch of chilli flakes, the garlic, a squeeze of lemon and a bit more olive oil and salt if you think it needs it.

Step 10

Cook for a minute more, so the mix is creamy and not watery.

Step 11

Meanwhile, cook the gnocchi or pasta in plenty of fast-boiling salted water until al dente, then drain or lift directly into the aubergine pan.

Step 12

Toss well, then divide between plates and serve topped with grated cheese and more chilli flakes or black pepper.