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Step 1
Heat the oven and prepare the baking sheet. Arrange a rack in the middle of the oven and heat the oven to 400ºF. Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper.
Step 2
Prepare the aromatics for stuffing the fish and the salt crust. Cut the stems from 1 bunch cilantro. Set a few long stems aside. Coarsely chop the remaining stems until you have 1/4 cup and place in a large bowl. Thinly slice half of a 1-inch piece of ginger (no need to peel), crush the slices, and set aside. Finely chop the remaining ginger (about 1 1/2 tablespoons) and add to the bowl. Finely chop half of a 6-inch piece of lemongrass (about 1 1/2 tablespoons) and add to the bowl. Smash the remaining half of the lemongrass. Finely grate the zest of 1 medium lime with a microplane directly into the bowl. Thinly slice half the lime, then cut the remaining half into wedges for serving.
Step 3
Prepare the salt mixture. Add 3 pounds kosher salt and 1/2 cup water or egg whites to the bowl of aromatics and mix until well combined.
Step 4
Prepare the fish. Trim the fins from a whole fish with kitchen shears. Rinse the fish, then pat dry with paper towels.
Step 5
Make a salt bed for the fish. Place about 2 cups of the salt mixture on a baking sheet, shaping the salt in about the same size as the fish.
Step 6
Add fish on top of salt. Place the fish on top of the salt bed. Stuff the reserved cilantro stems, ginger slices, lemongrass, and lime slices into the cavity of the fish.
Step 7
Cover the fish with salt and seal. Cup by cup, cover the fish with the remaining salt and press with your hands into a solid mound that completely encompasses the fish. Press until there are no remaining holes or cracks.
Step 8
Bake the fish. Bake until the internal temperature of the fish is 135ºF and the edges of the salt crust are lightly browned, 30 to 35 minutes. Let rest for 5 minutes.
Step 9
Crack and remove the salt crust. Using a large spoon, tap into the salt crust to crack it. Remove the salt crust in big chunks. Using a dry pastry brush, brush away any excess granules of salt that may be on the fish. This fish is best served family style.