Step 1

In a large, heatproof container, cover leaves with hot water, weighing leaves down with a plate if necessary to keep them submerged, and soak until soft and pliable, at least 1 hour. (Skip this step if using parchment paper.)

Step 2

In a small bowl, whisk together 6 tablespoons (90ml) reserved mushroom water, soy sauce, oyster sauce, sesame oil, cornstarch, and pepper until smooth and combined; set aside.

Step 3

In a wok or 12-inch skillet, heat vegetable oil over high heat until smoking. Add pork and cook, stirring occasionally and making sure to break up any large chunks, until well browned, 6 to 8 minutes. Reduce heat to medium, stir in mushrooms and cook until heated through, about 2 minutes longer. Stir in garlic and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in wine and cook until slightly evaporated, about 30 seconds longer. Stir in sauce mixture and cook until liquid is glossy and thickened, about 1 minute.

Step 4

In a large bowl, stir together pork mixture, squash, and salt until well combined and squash is coated.

Step 5

If Using Lotus Leaves: Drain lotus leaves and pat dry with paper towels. Arrange each lotus leaf on a small shallow bowl or plate, with matte side facing up. Divide squash mixture between both lotus leaves, spooning to form an even mound. Working with one leaf at a time, fold each side of leaf over the top to form square package; flip package in bowl so that stem side is facing up.

Step 6

If Using Parchment Paper: Arrange each piece parchment paper on a small shallow bowl or plate. Divide squash mixture between both pieces of parchment, spooning to form an even mound. Working with one piece of parchment at a time, fold each side over the top to form square package; flip package in bowl so that folded sides are on the bottom.

Step 7

To Steam: Bring water to boil in a clean wok with stacking bamboo steamers or another steamer setup large enough to hold one package in its bowl at a time (if using a wok with stacking bamboo steamers, you can cook both packages at once; if using a different steamer setup, you may need to cook one package at a time, or you'll have to set up two side-by-side steamers to cook both at once). Steam squash packages in their bowls until squash is soft and cooked through but not mealy, about 45 minutes (you can use a cake tester, bamboo skewer, or instant-read thermometer probe to pierce the package and test the texture of the squash, which should offer no resistance); be sure to check water level occasionally, topping up with more boiling water if needed to prevent steamer from going dry. Remove packages from steamer. Cut small opening in packages and serve.