Malloreddus Alla Campidanese (Sardinian Ridged Pasta With Saffron and Pork Ragù)

For the Sausage (optional; see note): In a large bowl, combine ground pork, red pepper flakes, fennel seeds, salt, pepper, and garlic and, using your hands or a sturdy spatula, mix until thoroughly combined, sticky, and cohesive, about 1 minute. Cover bowl with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 1 hour. Serious Eats / Lorena Masso For the Malloreddus: In a large bowl, whisk together semolina flour and a pinch of saffron powder (if using) until well combined. Using your hands, make a small well in the center of the flour, then pour 5 fluid ounces water into the well. Using your fingertips, gradually stir the flour into the water until it holds together in a single mass. Then, knead dough in the bowl until a cohesive ball forms, 1 to 2 minutes. Transfer dough ball to a work surface lightly dusted with semolina flour. Knead until dough is smooth and no dry flour remains, about 5 minutes. Shape dough into a ball, wrap with plastic wrap, and let sit at room temperature for 30 minutes. Serious Eats / Lorena Masso Alternatively, in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook, combine semolina flour, a pinch of saffron powder (if using), and 5 fluid ounces water and mix on low speed until flour is fully moistened, about 2 minutes. Scrape down bowl, then continue kneading on low speed until a smooth ball forms and no dry flour remains, about 3 minutes. Using your hands, shape the dough into a ball, wrap with plastic wrap, and let rest at room temperature for at least 30 minutes. Serious Eats / Lorena Masso Lightly dust a rimmed baking sheet with semolina flour and set aside. On a clean work surface lightly dusted with semolina flour, roll dough into a roughly 12-inch long cylinder. Using a bench scraper, divide the cylinder into 8 equal portions and cover loosely with plastic wrap. Working with one portion at a time, roll into a long rope, about 1/4 inch thick. Using a bench scraper, cut rope into roughly 1/4-inch segments. Repeat with remaining portions, covering with plastic wrap as you go. Serious Eats / Lorena Masso Use a gnocchi board, sushi mat, or fork to shape the gnocchi. To do so, hold one piece of dough with the cut-side facing you, then use your thumb to pull the dough along the ridges of the board, sushi mat, or fork (ridges should be vertical to the dough). The shaped dough will have a little indentation from your thumb and should resemble a tiny tube. Transfer malloreddus to prepared baking sheet, cover with plastic wrap, and repeat with remaining dough, lightly dusting with additional flour as you go. Serious Eats / Lorena Masso For the Sausage Ragù: In a large Dutch oven, heat olive oil over medium heat until shimmering. Add prepared sausage, using a wooden spoon to spread in an even layer across bottom of pot, and cook for 1 minute. Stir to break up sausage into 1/2-inch pieces. Serious Eats / Lorena Masso Reduce heat to medium-low, add onion and cook, stirring frequently, until softened and nearly translucent, about 5 minutes. Stir in garlic, crushed red pepper, black pepper, bay leaf, and saffron and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Pour in vernaccia di Oristano or sherry, using a wooden spoon to scrape up any brown bits on the bottom of the pot, and cook until raw alcohol smell has mostly cooked off, about 1 minute. Serious Eats / Lorena Masso Add canned tomatoes and their liquid, salt, and 1/2 cup water, then crush the whole tomatoes roughly with a spoon. Return to a simmer, reduce heat to low, partially cover pot, and cook, stirring occasionally, for 30 minutes. Remove lid, increase heat to medium, and cook, stirring frequently, until sauce is thick and slightly darker in color, about 10 minutes. Remove from heat and set aside. Serious Eats / Lorena Masso To Assemble and Serve: Meanwhile, bring a large pot of very well-salted water to a boil. Add malloreddus to boiling water and cook, stirring frequently, until they float to the surface, about 2 minutes. Using a spider skimmer or slotted spoon, scoop malloreddus and add directly to sausage ragù, along with 1/4 cup (60ml) pasta cooking water. Serious Eats / Lorena Masso Increase heat to medium and cook, stirring gently, until malloreddus are coated in the slightly thickened sauce, about 1 minute. Stir in Parmigiano-Reggiano. Serve immediately, passing more grated cheese at the table. Serious Eats / Lorena Masso