Step 1

Make the filling: In a small bowl, whisk together the granulated sugar and cornstarch until no lumps remain. Set aside.

Step 2

In a large pot or Dutch oven (at least 6-quart capacity) over medium-high heat, melt the butter until it sizzles and begins to brown, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the apples, brown sugar, cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg, cloves or allspice and salt and stir to combine. Cook, stirring gently and frequently, and adjusting the heat to avoid browning the apples, until they soften and a syrupy sauce forms, 10 to 15 minutes.

Step 3

Push the apples to the side of the pot until you can see a pool of bubbling syrup and whisk in the sugar-cornstarch mixture. Stir the apples into the sauce and cook until it thickens, about 2 minutes. The apples will have cooked down by about a third. Remove from the heat and stir in the lemon juice. Transfer to a sheet pan, spread into an even layer and let cool completely, at least 2 hours at room temperature, or cover and refrigerate until needed.

Step 4

Make the pie dough: In a large bowl, whisk together the flour and salt. Add the butter, tossing the cubes through the flour mixture until each individual piece is well coated. Press the pieces between your thumb and fingers, flattening the cubes into floury shards. As you work, toss the flattened butter through the flour to recoat it. Continue to work the mixture until the pieces of butter are no bigger than the size of a pea.

Step 5

Make a well in the center of the mixture. Add the ice water — but no ice cubes — to the well and, using a tossing motion with your hands, gently but thoroughly mix the two together. A shaggy dough will form — it should hold together when gently pressed. If it crumbles very easily or there are large pockets of dry flour, add more water, 1 tablespoon at a time, and gently mix until the dough is properly hydrated and holds together when pressed. It should not be sticky.

Step 6

Form the dough into a thick disk and fold it in half. There’s no need to be precise. Flatten it into a disk again and fold it in half again. (This will help create flakier layers once it bakes.) Divide the dough into two pieces: One should weigh approximately 400 grams (that’s your top crust) and the other, approximately 340 grams (that’s your bottom crust). Form each piece into a disk, wrap it tightly in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 1 hour and up to 2 days.

Step 7

Bake the pie: Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat to 425 degrees. Place a 9-inch pie plate on a large sheet pan.

Step 8

Make the egg wash: In a small bowl, whisk together the egg, milk and salt until well combined.

Step 9

Roll out the dough: Lightly dust a clean, dry work surface with flour. Place the smaller disk of dough on it and lightly flour the top. Using a rolling pin, roll the dough into a 12-inch-wide circle that’s about 1/4-inch thick, rotating it a quarter turn as you work and dusting with additional flour as necessary to prevent the dough from sticking. You may see some flecks of butter in the dough. Work quickly so the dough stays cold. (If your kitchen is warm, or if, at any time, the dough starts to feel greasy, transfer it to the freezer to chill for 5 to 10 minutes before proceeding.)

Step 10

Drape the dough over a rolling pin and transfer the bottom crust to the pie plate. Gently fit it into the bottom and against the sides of the pie plate, lifting and shifting it to avoid stretching the dough. Let any excess dough hang over the edge.

Step 11

Roll out the larger disk of dough into a 14-inch-wide circle.

Step 12

Fill the bottom crust with the cooled filling, mounding it taller in the center. Place the top crust over the filling, carefully fitting it around the mound. You should have an overhang of about 1 1/2 inches. Using kitchen shears, trim any excess dough from around the edges. Tuck the top crust under the bottom one and press it flat into the rim of the pan to seal the pie. Crimp or create a fluted edge, if desired.

Step 13

Brush the top of the pie with the egg wash. Using a paring knife, cut 3 to 5 slits in the top of the pie for steam to escape. Bake for 20 minutes, then rotate the pie front to back and reduce the oven temperature to 400 degrees. Bake for another 25 minutes and rotate front to back again. If any part of the crust starts to darken too fast, cover it with foil. Bake for an additional 30 to 40 minutes, or until the crust is deeply browned and any juices running from the pie are very thick, with slowly popping bubbles.

Step 14

Transfer to a wire rack and let cool for at least 3 hours, and up to 6 hours, before serving.