Step 1

For spice mix, finely grind whole spices and 1 tsp sea salt flakes with a mortar and pestle or spice grinder, then stir in turmeric (see note).

Step 2

Heat a wide saucepan over high heat until hot, then tip in pipis, add wine and bay leaves and cover with a lid. Give the pan a jiggle now and then until pipis start to open (2-3 minutes). Remove lid and, working swiftly, remove pipis to a bowl as they open. Once they're all rescued, along with the bay leaves, discard liquid, wipe out saucepan and return to heat. Add speck, anchovies and oil, and stir until anchovies dissolve (3-4 minutes). Add curry leaves, shallot, garlic and chilli, and fry until curry leaves start to crisp (3-4 minutes). Add spice mix and cook, stirring occasionally, until spices start to stick to the pan (2-3 minutes), then return pipis and give them a good stir. Add coconut milk and stock, bring to the boil, then remove from heat, taste and adjust seasoning, and serve with lime cheeks.