Step 1

Mix the yeast and salt with the water in a 5-quart bowl or a lidded (but not completely airtight) food container.

Step 2

Mix in the flour, using a spoon or a heavy-duty stand mixer with the paddle attachment.

Step 3

Partially cover the bowl or container (make sure it’s not sealed airtight) and let it rest at room temperature for 2 hours. The dough will rise during this time.

Step 4

The dough can be used immediately after the initial rise, although the dough’s a lot easier to handle when it’s cold. I like to refrigerate it in a lidded (but not airtight) container for at least overnight and up to 14 days before shaping and baking it.

Step 5

On baking day, dust the surface of the dough with flour and cut off a 1/2-pound piece—that’s about the size of a peach. Dust the piece with more flour and quickly shape it into a ball by stretching the surface of the dough around to the bottom, rotating the ball a quarter turn as you go. Let the dough rest for 10 minutes.

Step 6

Shape the ball into a rectangle of sorts and then with the palms of your hands, gently roll it into the shape of a baguette, elongating and tapering it to about 16 inches. Return the rest of the dough to the refrigerator for another day.

Step 7

Let the dough rest and rise on a pizza peel (or an upside-down baking sheet) covered with parchment paper for 40 minutes.

Step 8

Preheat the oven to 450°F with a baking stone or baking sheet placed on the middle rack. Place an empty metal broiler tray or roasting pan or any other oven shelf that won’t interfere with the rising bread.

Step 9

Just before baking, dust the loaf with flour. Slick the blades of a sharp pair of kitchen scissors with oil and cut into the dough crosswise near the top of the baguette shape, at a 25° angle to the dough, stopping a quarter inch from the bottom of the dough. Fold each cut piece over to the side, alternating sides with each cut. Repeat until the entire loaf is cut. Voila. You should see a pain d’épí before you.

Step 10

Carefully slide the loaf directly onto the hot stone or baking sheet. Quickly pour 1 cup hot water into the broiler tray and close the oven door. Bake for 25 to 30 minutes, or until the loaf is deeply browned and firm.

Step 11

Let the bread cool completely before breaking off the wheat-stalk shapes in chunks and sighing with contentment. Originally published February 27, 2014.