Step 1

In a large bowl, combine the rice and 1 tablespoon salt. Add water to cover by 1 inch, then set aside for 30 minutes. If using saffron, in a liquid measuring cup or small bowl, combine ½ cup water and the saffron threads; set aside.

Step 2

Drain the rice in a fine-mesh strainer, then rinse under cool water and drain again. Heat the oven to 375°F with a rack in the lower-middle position.

Step 3

In a 6- to 8-quart Dutch oven over medium-high, heat 2 tablespoons of the oil and 2 tablespoons ghee until shimmering. Add the onions and cook, stirring, until softened and jammy, with some areas of deep caramelization, 15 to 20 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to a plate; set aside.

Step 4

To the pot, add the remaining 1 tablespoon oil along with the garlic, ginger, bay and cumin seeds; cook over medium, stirring, until fragrant and the garlic is lightly browned, 1 to 2 minutes. Stir in the garam masala, cardamom, turmeric, chili powder, cloves and ½ teaspoon pepper, then add the chicken, potato, tomato puree, apricots, ½ cup water and 1½ teaspoons salt. Stir, scraping up any browned bits, then cover and cook, stirring once or twice, until the potato is tender, 10 to 15 minutes.

Step 5

Remove the pot from heat. Add the yogurt, half of the onions and 2 tablespoons of the mint; stir, scraping along the bottom of the pot. Distribute in an even layer, then sprinkle on half of the rice; do not stir. Scatter the remaining onions over the rice, followed by 2 tablespoons of the remaining mint. Distribute the remaining rice in an even layer on top, then drizzle with the 2 tablespoons melted ghee and sprinkle with 2 tablespoons of the remaining mint. Lay the tomato slices and lemon slices in an even layer on top.

Step 6

Slowly pour the saffron water (if using) or ½ cup plain water down the side of the pot, taking care not to disturb the rice. Bring to a vigorous simmer over medium-high, then cover and transfer to the oven. Bake until the rice has absorbed the liquid, 25 to 30 minutes. Remove the pot from the oven, uncover and drape a kitchen towel across the top; do not replace the lid. Let rest for 10 minutes.

Step 7

If desired, remove and discard the lemon slices. Using a large spoon, fold together the layers and fluff the rice by stirring up from the bottom. Remove and discard the bay. Taste and season with salt and pepper. Serve sprinkled with the remaining 2 tablespoons mint; offer yogurt alongside for drizzling.