Step 1

In a 3-quart saucepan, saucier, or other medium pot, combine cream with thyme, garlic, and black pepper. Bring to a simmer over medium heat, stirring and scraping the bottom of the pan with a flexible spatula to prevent scorching, then remove from heat and let steep 5 minutes. Remove and discard garlic and thyme.

Step 2

Return infused cream to low heat and add Taleggio, whisking constantly until Taleggio is fully melted.

Step 3

Add grated Gruyère (or Fontina) and continue to whisk until fully melted and a smooth sauce forms. Whisk in Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese. Keep warm.

Step 4

Meanwhile, in a pot of salted boiling water, cook pasta until al dente. Using a spider skimmer, transfer pasta to cheese sauce; alternatively, strain pasta in a colander, making sure to first reserve 1 cup (240ml) pasta-cooking water. Add 1/4 cup (60ml) pasta-cooking water to pasta and sauce and, working over medium-low heat, stir gently until pasta is coated in a creamy glaze. If sauce becomes too thick, add more pasta water, 1 tablespoon (15ml) at a time, to loosen to proper glazing consistency. Season with salt to taste.

Step 5

Remove from heat and stir in gorgonzola; it may completely melt into the sauce, but it's fine (arguably even desirable) if some pieces remain mostly intact.

Step 6

Serve right away, passing more grated Parmigiano-Reggiano at the table.