Step 1

Because this pasta is quite rich, serve it in slightly smaller portions with a green vegetable or salad. For the best results, use the highest-quality pancetta you can find. If you can find guanciale, we recommend using it and increasing the browning time in step 2 to 10 to 12 minutes. Because we call for cutting the pancetta to a specified thickness, we recommend having it cut to order at the deli counter; avoid presliced or prediced products. For the best texture, serve the pasta immediately.

Step 2

Slice each round of pancetta into rectangular pieces that measure about ½ inch by 1 inch.

Step 3

Heat pancetta and oil in large saucepan over medium-low heat, stirring frequently, until fat is rendered and pancetta is deep golden brown but still has slight pinkish hue, 8 to 10 minutes, adjusting heat as necessary to keep pancetta from browning too quickly. Using slotted spoon, transfer pancetta to bowl; set aside. Pour fat from saucepan into liquid measuring cup (you should have about ¼ cup fat; discard any extra). Return fat to saucepan.

Step 4

While pancetta cooks, set colander in large bowl. Bring 6 cups water to boil in large pot. Add pasta and cook, stirring often, until al dente. Drain pasta in prepared colander, reserving cooking water.

Step 5

Add pepper and 1 cup reserved cooking water to saucepan with fat and bring to boil over high heat. Boil mixture rapidly, scraping up any browned bits, until emulsified and reduced to 3/4 cup, 3 to 5 minutes. (If you've reduced it too far, add more reserved cooking water to equal 3/4 cup.)

Step 6

Reduce heat to low, add pasta and pancetta, and stir to evenly coat. Add Pecorino and stir until cheese is melted and sauce is slightly thickened, about 1 minute. Off heat, adjust sauce consistency with remaining reserved cooking water as needed. Transfer pasta to platter and serve immediately, passing extra pepper and extra Pecorino separately.