Step 1

Bring a large pot or Dutch oven of heavily salted water to a boil over medium-high heat. Meanwhile, cut 8 ounces guanciale or pancetta into 3/4-inch cubes or strips. Meanwhile, remove strip the leaves from the stems of 10 1/2 ounces kale. Stack the leaves and cut into 1-inch thick ribbons (about 3 cups). Finely grate 5 ounces pecorino romano or Parmesan cheese (about 1 cup), plus more for serving.

Step 2

Add 1 pound dried bucatini or spaghetti pasta to the boiling water. Cook for 4 minutes less than the package instructions, about 7 minutes. The pasta should be a little too tough to bite through. Reserve 1 cup of pasta water, then drain the pasta into a colander. Immediately drizzle with a little olive oil and use tongs or wooden spoon to toss the noodles with the oil so they don’t stick together.

Step 3

Wipe out the pot with a paper towel. Place back over medium heat, add 1 tablespoon olive oil and the guanciale, and cook, stirring occasionally, until most of the fat is rendered and guanciale is browned, about 5 minutes. Add the kale, season with black pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, until the kale wilts and starts to brown in spots, 3 to 4 minutes.

Step 4

Reduce the heat to low. Add the pasta, reserved pasta water, and cheese. Cook, stirring vigorously, until the pasta is coated with a cheesy sauce that clings to the pasta, 2 to 3 minutes. If the pasta seems dry at any point, then add in 1 tablespoon of warm water at a time. Season generously with more black pepper and serve immediately.