Step 1

Put the whole unpeeled potatoes in a pan of well-salted water, bring to a boil, then turn down the heat slightly and simmer until cooked through.

Step 2

Meanwhile, melt two tablespoons of the butter in a frying pan on a medium-low heat, add the onion and a pinch of salt and fry, stirring regularly so it doesn’t burn, for about 15 to 20 minutes, until a deep golden brown.

Step 3

Once they are cooked through, drain the potatoes, put back in the hot pan to dry off further, then, when they’re just cool enough to handle, peel off and discard the skins.

Step 4

Pass the flesh through a potato ricer, or mash it, then crumble or stir in the cheese and season to taste with salt and white pepper.

Step 5

Pass the mix through the ricer again, if using, then stir in half the onions until evenly distributed; set aside the rest of the onions in a small bowl for now, and don’t wash up the pan.

Step 6

Leave the filling to cool completely.

Step 7

To make the dough, put the butter in a small pan or microwaveable bowl with 125ml water and heat until the butter has melted and the water is just simmering.

Step 8

Meanwhile, put the flour and salt in a large bowl.

Step 9

Stir in just enough of the water and butter to make a dough, adding more flour or liquid as required until it just comes together; it shouldn’t be at all wet or sticky.

Step 10

Turn out the dough on to a lightly floured surface and knead until just smooth – do not overwork it.

Step 11

Cover with a slightly damp cloth or tea towel, then leave to rest for at least 30 minutes.

Step 12

If making the brown butter to serve with the pierogi, melt the remaining two tablespoons of butter in the onion pan on a medium heat, until the foam subsides and it turns a rich, nutty brown.

Step 13

Take off the heat and tip into the bowl of reserved onions.

Step 14

Keep the pan if you’re planning to finish off the pierogi in there later.

Step 15

Bring a large pan of salted water to a boil.

Step 16

Meanwhile, roll out the dough on the same lightly floured surface to about 3mm thick, then use a 8cm-wide cutter or glass to cut out circles, putting them under the damp cloth as you do so.

Step 17

(Once they’re all cut, you can re-roll and cut more circles from the scraps of dough, though it will be tougher than the first batch.)

Step 18

Put about a teaspoon of the filling in the centre of one of the circles, fold the dough around it in a taco shape, pushing down on the filling, if need be, to make space at the top to pinch shut, then go down both sides to seal (if they’re tricky to close, brush with a little cold water).

Step 19

Put back under the damp cloth and repeat with the remaining dough circles and filling.

Step 20

Cook the pierogi in batches in the boiling water; they should rise to the surface after two or three minutes, and are ready a couple of minutes after that. Drain well.

Step 21

Meanwhile, put the onion pan on a medium-high heat – it should still be well greased, but, if not, add a little more oil or butter.

Step 22

If frying the pierogi, put them in the hot pan and fry, shaking it to move them around, until lightly golden, then add the onions and browned butter just before serving.

Step 23

If serving them boiled, reheat the onions and browned butter and tip over the drained pierogi.