Step 1

To make the dough, in a small bowl or liquid measuring cup, whisk together the yogurt and ¾ cup plus 2 tablespoons water. In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, yeast and salt. Make a well in the center and pour in the yogurt mixture. Using a silicone spatula, gradually mix the ingredients; once combined, the mixture should form a shaggy dough.

Step 2

Using your hands, gather the dough and knead in the bowl until no dry, floury bits remain. Turn the dough out onto the counter; reserve the bowl. Knead until mostly smooth and the dough springs back when gently pressed, about 6 minutes. Wipe out the bowl and lightly coat it with oil. Place the dough in it and turn to coat. Cover and let rise at room temperature until doubled, 45 minutes to 1 hour.

Step 3

Meanwhile, make the filling. In a large microwave-safe bowl, toss the potatoes, ghee, cumin seeds, chili powder, salt and 2 tablespoons water. Cover and microwave on high until a skewer inserted into the potatoes meets no resistance, 10 to 13 minutes, shaking the bowl once about halfway through (do not uncover). Remove from the microwave and carefully uncover. Using a potato masher or the back of a large spoon, mix and mash until broken down but still chunky. Stir in the cabbage, mint, cilantro and chilies; set aside.

Step 4

When the dough has doubled, coat 2 rimmed baking sheets with 1 tablespoon oil each. Turn the dough out onto an unfloured counter and divide into 6 portions. Form each into a taut ball by rolling it against the counter in a circular motion under a cupped hand. Place the balls on one of the baking sheets, evenly spaced, and turn each one to coat with oil. Cover and let rise until puffy but not doubled, 25 to 30 minutes.

Step 5

On an unfloured counter and working 1 at a time, use a rolling pin to roll out the dough balls to 7-inch rounds about ⅜ inch thick; place 3 rounds on each baking sheet and cover with plastic wrap to prevent drying. Evenly divide the filling among the rounds, mounding it in the centers. Working with 1 round, gather the edges of the dough up and around the filling, enclosing it; pinch the seam to seal. Transfer the ball to an unfloured counter, turning it seam side down. Using your fingers, gently pat it into an even disk, then, using a rolling pin, gently roll into a 6-inch round about ½ inch thick; it’s OK if there are small tears in the surface. (If large tears begin to form, set the disk aside to rest for a few minutes before continuing.) Return the round to the baking sheet; re-cover with plastic wrap. Repeat with the remaining dough balls.

Step 6

Heat a 10- or 12-inch cast-iron skillet over medium-high until water flicked onto the surface sizzles and evaporates within seconds, 4 to 6 minutes. Lightly brush the first filled and rolled round on both sides with ghee, then lightly sprinkle the seam-free side with sesame seeds. Dimple the seeded side of the round by firmly pressing your fingertips straight down into the dough. Place in the skillet and cook until spottily charred on the bottom, 2 to 2½ minutes. Using a metal spatula, flip and cook until spottily charred on the second side, another 1½ to 2 minutes. Transfer to a large plate and lightly brush both sides with ghee. Repeat with the remaining naan, stacking them on the plate; reduce the heat as needed if the skillet builds up too much heat and cooks the naan too quickly. Serve warm.

Step 7

Garlic Naan with Green Chili and Cilantro: Follow the recipe to make the dough; omit the filling and the ghee and sesame seeds for brushing and sprinkling. While the dough rises, in a small bowl, stir together 3 tablespoons salted butter (room temperature), 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh cilantro, 2 medium garlic cloves (finely grated) and 1 serrano chili (stemmed, seeded and minced); set aside. Divide, shape and roll the dough into 7-inch rounds (this naan is unfilled) as directed. Follow the recipe to dimple and cook the rounds, lightly brushing each on both sides with the butter mixture after transferring to a plate.

Step 8

Naan with Spiced Raisins and Nuts (Peshawari Naan): Follow the recipe to make the dough; omit the filling and the ghee and sesame seeds for brushing and sprinkling. While the dough rises, in a medium bowl, stir together 78 grams (½ cup) golden raisins (chopped), 45 grams (½ cup) unsweetened shredded coconut, 33 grams (¼ cup) slivered almonds (toasted and chopped), 57 grams (4 tablespoons) salted butter (melted), 27 grams (2 tablespoons) white sugar, ½ teaspoon ground cinnamon and ½ teaspoon ground cardamom; set aside. Divide, shape, roll and fill the dough as directed, using the raisin mixture in place of the potato filling; be extra gentle when handling the filled dough. Follow the recipe to dimple and cook the rounds, lightly brushing each on both sides with salted butter (room temperature) after transferring to a plate.