Step 1

Heat the olive oil in a large stockpot and sauté the vegetables over high heat for 5 minutes, stirring often, until the onions are translucent. If you are using fresh mushrooms, add them, too. Add the tomato paste, stir well and cook over medium heat for another 2 or 3 minutes, until it darkens.

Step 2

Add the shells and bodies and bones and smash them all with a potato masher. If you are using dried mushrooms, add them here. Mix well to coat with the tomato paste and to disperse everything. Cook for another 2 to 3 minutes, stirring a couple times.

Step 3

Add the white wine, bay leaves, peppercorns and parsley and bring to a boil. Let this cook for a minute or two, then pour in enough cold water to cover everything by about an inch; normally this is about 10 cups. Let this simmer very gently for between 30 and 45 minutes. Add salt to taste.

Step 4

Turn off the heat. Set up another large pot or bowl and put a fine-meshed strainer over it. Line the strainer with a plain paper towel or cheesecloth and ladle the stock through this set-up into the large pot or bowls. Do not try to get the last dregs of stock, as this will be full of debris. Discard the shells, etc.

Step 5

Let the stock cool for 15 to 30 minutes, then use or pour into quart jars. The stock will keep for a week in the fridge. It will freeze well for 6 months, but after that it deteriorates rapidly.