Step 1

If using unsalted chicken stock, whisk 1 cup of the stock with 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt (no need to season low-sodium chicken broth). Transfer 1/4 cup of the broth to a small saucepan and sprinkle with 1 (1/4-ounce) envelope unflavored powdered gelatin. Whisk until the gelatin is hydrated and let sit for a minute or two until the gelatin is bloomed and firmed up a bit.

Step 2

Heat over medium-low heat, whisking constantly, until the gelatin is dissolved and no clumps remain; do not let the mixture come to a boil. Add the remaining 3/4 cup chicken broth and whisk to combine. Pour into a shallow bowl (the wider the faster it will set). Cover and refrigerate until firm, 30 minutes to 2 hours.

Step 3

Scoop out the jelly onto a cutting board, cut into 1/2-inch cubes, and return to the bowl. Finely chop 3 medium scallions (about 1/2 cup). Finely grate 1 (1-inch) piece ginger until you have 1 tablespoon (peel first if desired).

Step 4

Place the scallions, ginger, 1/4 cup Shaoxing wine, 1/4 cup cold water, 1 tablespoon plus 1 1/2 teaspoons soy sauce, 2 teaspoons granulated sugar, 1 1/2 teaspoons oyster sauce, 1 teaspoon kosher salt, 1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil, 1/2 teaspoon dark soy sauce, 1/4 teaspoon ground white pepper, and 1/2 teaspoon MSG if desired in the bowl of a food processor fitted with the blade attachment. Pulse a few times until evenly combined, about 5 (1-second) pulses.

Step 5

Add 12 ounces ground pork and pulse until smooth and sticky in texture, about 12 (1-second) pulses. Add the jellied chicken stock jelly and pulse until the jelly is pea-sized, 4 to 5 (1-second) pulses. Transfer to the bowl the jelly was in. Cover and refrigerate while you make the dough.

Step 6

Place 1 cup lukewarm water (105 to 110°F) and 1/2 teaspoon active dry yeast in a small bowl and stir until the yeast is dissolved. Let sit until the yeast is foaming, about 5 minutes. Meanwhile, place 2 1/2 cups all-purpose flour, 1/3 cup cornstarch, 1 teaspoon granulated sugar, and 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt in the bowl of a stand mixer and whisk until combined.

Step 7

Fit the mixer with the hook attachment. Turn the mixer on to medium-low speed (speed 2 on a KitchenAid), slowly pour in the yeast mixture, and mix until a shaggy dough forms and the sides of the bowl are clean, about 2 minutes. If the dough looks dry, mix in 1 tablespoon cold water at a time until no dry spots remain. Continue to mix until the dough is smooth and elastic, about 10 minutes.

Step 8

Remove the dough from the bowl, shape into a ball, and coat all over with 1/2 teaspoon neutral oil. Return to the stand mixer bowl, cover, and let rise until 1 1/2 times increased in volume, about 30 minutes.

Step 9

Lightly coat a large plate or baking sheet with neutral oil. Divide the dough in half (about 10 ounces each). Leave one half covered in the bowl to keep it from drying out. Roll out the remaining half on a work surface in a 12-inch rope that’s about 1 1/2 inches thick. Cut the rope crosswise and into 12 (1-inch) pieces. Cover the pieces with a damp paper towel.

Step 10

Working with 1 piece of dough at a time and dusting lightly with flour if needed, roll out into a 5-inch wide round that’s thinner at the edges (a short rolling pin or dowel works best). Spoon a heaping tablespoon of the filling onto the center of the wrapper, piling it high.

Step 11

Bring up two opposite sides of the wrapper up and over the filling to meet in the middle. Pinch the dough together. Bring up the remaining two sides of the wrapper up and over the filling to meet in the middle. Pinch together to form a bundle with 4 corners. Pull two opposite corners of the bundle to the middle and pinch the dough together. Repeat with the remaining two corners and pinch to completely seal in the filling.

Step 12

Place on the plate or baking sheet and repeat with the remaining dough until all the filling and dough are used; do not let them touch. Cover with a damp paper towel and refrigerate for up to 2 hours.

Step 13

Finely chop 2 medium scallions (about 1/3 cup).

Step 14

Coat a 12-inch cast iron or nonstick skillet with cooking spray. Add 1 tablespoon plus 1 1/2 teaspoons neutral oil and swirl until evenly coat the bottom of the pan. Place 8 pork buns in the pan (keep the remaining covered in the refrigerator), spacing them 1/2-inch apart (they can be pleat side up or down). Cook over medium heat until the bottoms of the buns are light golden brown, 5 to 10 minutes.

Step 15

Add 1/3 cup cold water. Cover and cook for 8 minutes. Uncover and quickly sprinkle with 1/4 teaspoon toasted sesame seeds and 1/3 of chopped scallions. Cover and continue to cook until all the water has evaporated and the dough is visibly puffed, about 5 minutes more.

Step 16

Use a thin spatula to loosen the buns from the pan. Transfer the buns browned-side up onto a serving plate. Wipe off any brown bits and excess grease with a paper towel. Repeat cooking the remaining buns, adding 1 tablespoon neutral oil to the pan before each batch and using the same amount of cold water.

Step 17

Serve hot with a Chinese black or Chinkiang vinegar for dipping.