Step 1

1 Prepare the scallions and ginger: Cut the green tops of the scallions into 1- to 2-inch pieces

Step 2

2 Thread-cut the white parts of the scallions and about one-third of the ginger (see NOTE)

Step 3

3 Slice the remaining ginger into thin rounds

Step 4

4 Line a 12-inch steamer or colander with cabbage leaves, if using, tearing them to fit, and set it inside a 14-inch wok or large, lidded pot (see NOTE)

Step 5

5 Fill the pot with just enough water to reach the bottom rim of the steamer

Step 6

6 Set the pot over medium heat and bring the water to a high simmer

Step 7

7 Run your fingers over the skin of the fish to check for lingering scales; remove them with the edge of a spoon

Step 8

8 Starting about 1 inch behind the gills, working toward the tail, and on both sides of the fish, make six to eight 2-inch-long parallel slits into the flesh, not quite deep enough to hit bone

Step 9

9 Tuck some of the larger pieces of scallion, ginger and/or citrus zest into each slit and slip the rest inside the cavity

Step 10

10 Place the fish in the steamer on its belly, if possible, making sure the water is at a high simmer

Step 11

11 The fish can be curled around the perimeter or hang over the edges so long as everything fits in the pot

Step 12

12 If not, carefully cut off the gills and fins and/or cut the fish in half to fit

Step 13

13 Cover tightly, and resist the urge to lift the lid

Step 14

14 Steam for 10 to 12 minutes, or until the eyeballs are opaque and the flesh of the fish is white and flaky at the thickest part near the head and first slit

Step 15

15 When the fish is ready, carefully transfer it to a serving platter

Step 16

16 (Reassemble as a whole fish if you cut it in two

Step 17

17 ) Drizzle with the soy sauce, then top with the thread-cut ginger and scallion

Step 18

18 In a small, heavy-bottomed saucepan over high heat, heat the oil until it just starts to smoke

Step 19

19 Immediately pour the oil over the aromatics and fish

Step 20

20 The ginger and scallions will sizzle

Step 21

21 Garnish with the cilantro

Step 22

22 Serve family-style, with a spoon big enough to capture a chunk of the fish with the juices that have collected on the plate, and with cooked rice and steamed vegetables on the side, if desired

Step 23

23 NOTES: To thread cut is to cut food into very fine, thread-like pieces

Step 24

24 It is similar to the French julienne cut

Step 25

25 If you don’t have cabbage leaves, you can place the fish in a pie plate, and set that in the steamer

Step 26

26 The goal is to shield the fish from direct steam