Step 1

Place wood chips in a disposable container and cover with water. Soak 30 minutes to 24 hours. Drain and wrap in three layers of aluminum foil, poking holes in foil to allow smoke to escape. Set aside.

Step 2

Preheat grill to medium-high heat. Split hens in half by cutting through breastbones and backbones. Grind together bay leaves, mustard seeds and peppercorns in a clean coffee grinder or blender. Transfer mixture to a small bowl and stir in salt. Rub hen halves all over with the spice mixture.

Step 3

Push coals to one side of grill, using tongs. Replace grill rack. (Or, if using a gas grill, turn off burners on one half of the grill.)

Step 4

Stir together pickling spice and 2 cups water in a metal disposable pie pan, and place pan on cool side of the grill, along with hens not over the coals or burners. Place packet of wood chips on the hot side of grill.

Step 5

Close the lid and open the vents to maintain fire. Let hens smoke for about 45 minutes, until juices run clear and a meat thermometer inserted in the center of breast registers 170°F. While the hens are cooking, make the pickles, and serve them as a side dish.