Step 1

In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, sugar, yeast, and salt. Using a microplane grater, grate in nutmeg to taste (about 1/4 teaspoon). Using the grater again, zest the clementine into the bowl. Whisk to combine. Add the currants or raisins, if using, and whisk one last time to combine. Set aside.

Step 2

In a medium bowl, whisk the egg and the milk (no need to heat) together. Add the melted butter and whisk to combine.

Step 3

Add the milk-egg-butter mixture to the bowl with the flour mixture. Use a spatula to combine all ingredients until flour is absorbed and you have a shaggy dough ball. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface (reserving the bowl) and knead briefly, about 60 seconds, using flour as needed until you have a cohesive ball. Return the dough to the bowl and slick the dough lightly with olive oil, rubbing to coat.

Step 4

Cover the bowl with a lid, a cloth bowl cover, or plastic wrap. Let the dough rise in a warm draft-free area until it has puffed considerably and is light to the touch, 2.5 to 3 hours. (See notes above for creating a warm place for your dough to rise.)

Step 5

Butter an 8- or 9-inch square or round baking pan. For easy removal of the buns, line it with parchment paper, too. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface. Sprinkle the surface of the dough lightly with flour; then, using a bench scraper, divide it into 9 equal portions (roughly 102 grams each; see notes above if you wish to make smaller portions). Using flour as needed, ball up each portion.

Step 6

Place the balls equally spaced into the prepared pan. At this point, you can cover the pan with plastic wrap or stick it in a large 2-gallon ziptop bag and place it in the fridge overnight; or, if baking immediately, let the buns rise again (covered) until they have puffed considerably and are squishing against each other, about 60 minutes (or more depending on how cold your kitchen is).

Step 7

Preheat the oven to 375ºF. If you are doing the refrigerator rise, remove the pan an hour (if possible) before baking. Ideally, the buns should be puffed, filling the pan, and light to the touch but it’s fine if you don’t see much of a change — they will puff in the oven. Brush the rolls with the egg wash. Bake for about 25 to 30 minutes, or until the rolls are evenly golden brown.

Step 8

Juice the clementine or orange you used for zest in step You need roughly 2 tablespoons of juice. Stir in 2 tablespoons of sugar with a spoon until it mostly dissolves.

Step 9

In a stand mixer or with a handheld mixer, beat the cream cheese with the confectioners’ sugar until combined. Add 1 teaspoon vanilla and a pinch of sea salt. (Alternatively, if your cream cheese is very soft, you can mix this with a spatula.) Taste, and adjust with more sugar and salt to taste. Transfer to a piping bag or small ziplock bag.

Step 10

Remove the buns from the oven and place on a cooling rack. Brush with the orange glaze immediately.

Step 11

Let buns cool for at least 15 minutes before icing: Snip off a corner of the storage bag, if using, and pipe a cross over each bun. Serve immediately.