Step 1

Adjust oven rack to the middle middle position, preheat to 350&degF (175°C), and line two aluminum half sheet pans with parchment paper (not wax paper!).

Step 2

Combine sugar, baking soda, cinnamon, gingers, vanilla, pepper, butter and molasses in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment. Mix on low to moisten, increase to medium, then beat until fluffy, pale tan, and soft, about 5 minutes. Add egg and beat until smooth, 2 minutes more, pausing to scrape as needed. Resume mixing on low, sprinkle in flour, and continue until a soft dough is formed.

Step 3

Divide into 48 level 1/2-ounce portions with a 1 tablespoon scoop. Roll smooth and round, tumble in a dish with raw or granulated sugar, and arrange on prepared sheet pans, leaving 2 inches in between. Do not flatten, these cookies will spread on their own.

Step 4

Bake until puffed and chestnut brown, about 22 minutes. Cool directly on sheet pan 2 hours—prior to that, gingersnaps will not be crisp inside. Store leftovers in an airtight container up to 3 weeks at room temperature.