Zabaglione

In a large saucepan, bring 1 inch of water to a simmer over medium heat; make sure the saucepan you use is large enough to snugly contain about half of either a copper egg bowl or a heatproof glass mixing bowl without the bottom of the bowl making direct contact with the simmering water. Meanwhile, in the bowl and off the heat, thoroughly whisk together egg yolks and sugar until homogenous and smooth. Whisk in wine and salt until the mixture is lightly foamy. Serious Eats / Amanda Using a pot holder or clean, dry kitchen towel to hold the rim of the bowl, set it over the gently simmering water and begin whisking immediately, making sure to use an up-and-over motion to incorporate as much air as possible and paying special mind to work the whisk all over the inner surface of the bowl so that the foam doesn't overheat in any spots (this can cause the egg to scramble). Adjust the heat as needed to maintain a gentle simmer, not a boil (check the water's status from time to time by lifting the bowl up and peeking underneath). Continue to whisk constantly until the foam begins to thicken, about 5 minutes (timing can vary depending on the type of bowl you use and the level of the simmer). Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez Once the zabaglione begins to thicken and the whisk leaves tracks as you move it, perform the "8-second" test: Lift a whiskful of the zabaglione and let it fall back down into the bowl. When it takes a full 8 seconds for the small mound of fallen zabaglione to fully flatten, it is done. Remove from heat, set bowl on a folded kitchen towel, and continue whisking, off heat, until thickened further and cooled until warm or at room temperature, depending on your preference. Add lemon juice, 1/2 teaspoon at a time, only if desired to balance the zabaglione's sweet flavor. Serve the zabaglione as desired. Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez