english peas

Steven Satterfield, the chef at Miller Union in Atlanta, published a version of this recipe for a kind of Lowcountry risotto in his cookbook, "Root to Leaf." He uses Carolina Gold rice, a heritage long-grain variety, but any good long-grain rice will do. Likewise, feel free to substitute other hams for the country ham called for in the recipe. But use the very best peas you can find or, failing that, asparagus tips or tiny radishes. Not rich enough for you? Add a poached egg.

Creamed Rice With English Peas and Country Ham

unsalted butter

rice

dry white wine

heavy cream, heated

country ham

English peas,

kosher salt,

Parmesan,

Put butter in a wide saucepan or Dutch oven set over medium heat and cook until the butter foams. Add rice and stir continuously until the grains turn opaque, 5 to 7 minutes.

Add white wine and stir until the rice absorbs the liquid. Add 1/4 of a cup water, stirring until the rice absorbs it. Repeat 3 times, until the rice has absorbed a total of 1 cup of water.

Slowly add 1/2 cup of hot stock, stirring until the rice absorbs it. Then add 1/2 cup of cream, again stirring until the rice absorbs it. Repeat until all the stock and cream is absorbed and the rice is tender and creamy, about 40 minutes. Stir in the ham and peas. Taste and salt if needed. Shower with grated Parmesan and serve hot.

This simple pasta primavera uses a combination of the earliest vegetables available in spring — asparagus, peas and spring onions — making it a true celebration of the season. The sauce works best with springy egg pasta, preferably homemade or a good purchased brand. Make sure not to overcook it; you need the chewy bite to stand up to the gently cooked vegetables. If you can’t find good fresh English peas, you can substitute frozen peas, but don’t add them until the last minute of cooking.

Pasta Primavera With Asparagus and Peas

sugar snap peas, stems

asparagus, ends snapped

English peas

garlic cloves, finely chopped

fine sea salt, more as needed

Black pepper, more as needed

fettuccine

Parmigiano-Reggiano,

crème fraîche

parsley

tarragon

Bring a large pot of heavily salted water to a boil over medium-high heat.

While the water is coming to a boil, slice snap peas and asparagus stems into 1/4-inch-thick pieces; leave asparagus tips whole.

Melt butter in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add snap peas, asparagus, English peas and onion. Cook until vegetables are barely tender (but not too soft or mushy), 3 to 4 minutes. Stir in garlic and cook 1 minute more. Season with salt and pepper; set aside.

Drop pasta into boiling water and cook until al dente (1 to 3 minutes for fresh pasta, more for dried pasta). Drain well and transfer pasta to a large bowl. Immediately toss pasta with vegetables, Parmigiano-Reggiano, crème fraîche and herbs. Season generously with salt and pepper, if needed.

Vegetables as seasonal as a maypole shape this risotto. There is a bit of veal for those who desire a more substantial plate of food, but it’s optional. For vegetarians, the broth does not have to be chicken. Omit the butter and cheese, and you're in vegan territory. As for the rice, regular arborio works fine though Vialone Nano, the elegant variety that is preferred in Venice for risotto with peas, is my choice for added culture, not necessarily flavor.

Risotto With Peas and Sausage

chicken or vegetable stock

olive oil

leeks,

garlic, slivered

Vialone Nano or arborio rice

peas

Salt and black pepper

lemon

pecorino cheese

chives

Place stock in a saucepan and keep on low heat.

Heat oil in a separate heavy 3-quart saucepan. Add leeks and garlic and sauté on medium-low until leeks are translucent. Stir in sausage or veal, if using. Cook 2 to 3 minutes. Add in rice and cook a few minutes, stirring, until grains start to whiten. Add wine and cook until it’s nearly evaporated.

Add a 1/2 cup of the warm stock and the peas. Stir and cook at a steady simmer until the stock has nearly evaporated. Add another 1/2 cup of the stock, stir from time to time until it’s nearly evaporated. Keep this up until the rice is almost al dente, the peas are tender and there’s only a little stock left. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Fold in lemon zest and remaining stock; the result should be creamy. Cook another minute or two. Fold in butter.

Divide risotto among 4 to 6 shallow soup plates. Top each portion with cheese and chives. Serve.

This dish is inspired by a trip to Curry Hill, a neighborhood in New York dotted with stores selling saris, Indian restaurants, Pakistani cafes and hole-in-the-wall spice shops. When  I got home from my shopping spree, a cauliflower was screaming for Indian spices, garlic and ginger. Better still, I knew I could knock together a pan-roasted meal in about 20 minutes.

Pan-Roasted Spiced Cauliflower With Peas

ghee, clarified butter or vegetable oil

cauliflower

Kosher salt and black pepper

cumin seeds

black mustard seeds

turmeric turmeric

makrut lime leaves (optional)

serrano chiles, finely chopped, or to taste

snow peas

scallions, slivered

Cilantro sprigs,

Lime wedges,

Heat a large sauté pan or cast-iron skillet over medium-high. Add the ghee or oil, and when it is hot, add the cauliflower. Stir until the cauliflower begins to color, 1 to 2 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Continue stirring until the cauliflower is half-cooked, about 5 minutes, lowering the heat if necessary to keep it from browning too quickly.

Add the cumin, mustard seeds, turmeric and makrut lime leaves, if using. When they begin to sizzle, add the ginger, garlic and chilies. Stir well and add the peas, along with a sprinkle of salt. Cover to let the peas steam until tender, 2 to 4 minutes. Sprinkle with the slivered scallions and cilantro. Serve with lime wedges.

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Creamed Rice With English Peas and ...

Pasta Primavera With Asparagus and ...

Risotto With Peas and Sausage

Pan-Roasted Spiced Cauliflower With...

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