guajillo chile

A well-seasoned, chile-paste-slathered pork shoulder is already going to win, no matter what you do to it. Which seems to me like the ideal reason to try a new technique: slow roasting, off-flame, with ambient heat, using your outdoor grill as a coal-fired oven in the off-season of dead winter. Even if your live coals snuff out, or smoke too heavily, or you get bored of the snow-muffled silence or feel lonely in the winter solitude of your backyard, even if you miscalculate sunset and find yourself in the dark with a cellphone flashlight trying to read the internal temperature of the meat to discover it’s still raw in the center — all you have to do is close up shop out back, come inside and shove the thing in your conventional oven and then read the newspaper until dinner.

Smoky Pork Shoulder With Chile Paste

pork shoulder

coarse kosher salt

black pepper

chiles,

guajillo chiles, stemmed and seeded

chiles d’árbol, stemmed and seeded

garlic cloves,

cilantro

white vinegar

salt

Set pork shoulder in a deep roasting pan just large enough to accommodate it. With a sharp knife or straight edge razor blade, cut a deep 3/4-inch diamond pattern into the thick fat cap.

Sprinkle 2 tablespoons kosher salt over the diamond cuts, then all the pepper. Rub the salt and pepper into the cuts and all over the top and sides of the pork shoulder.

Turn the shoulder fat-side down, and sprinkle the remaining salt over the meat. Rub the salt and any pepper that has scattered in the pan into and all over the meat to have a wholly seasoned piece of meat — especially on the top, in the diamond-cut fat area. Let the seasoned roast rest on the counter at room temperature for 2 hours.

Meanwhile, make the chile paste. Bring a medium saucepan of water to boil. Off heat, add the pasillas, guajillos and árbols, and let them soak for 30 minutes while you gather and prepare the other ingredients. When the chiles are softened, transfer them and 1/2 cup of their soaking water into a high-powered blender. Add the garlic, scallions, cilantro, vinegar and kosher salt, and blend into a smooth, dark red-brown paste. (The consistency should remind you of jarred applesauce.)

Pour this chile paste over the pork shoulder and massage it all over the roast, leaving a nice extra schmear on the top of the roast and, again, seasoning the diamond-cut fat cap a little more generously than the bottom. (The fat on the top is going to render slowly all through the cooking and melt down into the meat, in a self-basting way, which is why the most seasoning is at the top.) Don’t worry about the excess paste; it will remain in the roasting pan to enhance the juices later.

Build a fire in your grill, then push the hot coals to one side in a mounded crescent shape, leaving space for the roasting/drip pan that now holds the marinade-slathered meat. If using an oven, heat it to 325.

Remove the meat from the pan, and set it to the side (I use a sheet of parchment for easy cleanup) while you prepare the grill or oven.

To prepare the grill or the oven, add a full inch of water to the roasting pan, stirring briefly to combine it with the excess chile paste, and nestle the roasting pan into the bottom of the grill in the empty space next to the crescent of coals, or on the bottom rack of the oven.

Place the grill rack in position over the coals. Set the meat directly onto the rack above the water-filled roasting pan so that the juices will drip into it while cooking. If using a conventional oven, place the roast, fat side up, on the rack directly above the roasting pan.

Place the cover on the grill, open the vents all the way and let the roast cook for 3 to 4 hours maintaining a gentle 300 degrees, adding coals when needed. If the temperature spikes to 325 or drops to 275 along the way, it doesn’t matter at all — open and close the lid as needed to get back on track. The goal is to slowly, gently cook the meat, giving all that fat time to melt, the skin time to crisp and the tough cut of meat (muscly shoulder) time to become tender.

Add water to the drip pan if you see it evaporating, though I did not need to add liquid any time I tested this. The natural fats and juices drip down into the pan, commingling with the chile-paste-spiked water to create a smoky, spicy, delicious cache of pan juices for later spooning over the roast while it rests. Loosely cover the meat with foil if it starts looking too dark too soon.

Cook until the internal temperature reaches about 165 degrees, up to 4 hours. Remove from the grill (or the oven). Remove the roasting/drip pan. Let the meat rest for 30 minutes. Spoon the drippings over the roast until glossy and moist. Slice thin.

The key to this adobo is truly burning the chiles and spices. Not browned, not toasted—burned. Try this at home; just open the windows and turn on the fan first.

Grilled Pork Tenderloin in Charred-Chile Adobo

ancho chiles, seeds removed

guajillo chiles, seeds removed

pasilla chiles, seeds removed

jalapeños

garlic

corn tortillas,

oregano

cumin seeds

cloves

allspice berries

orange juice

pork tenderloins (about 2 pounds total), trimmed, silver skin removed

Guacamole, Grilled Salsa Roja and Avocado-Tomatillo Salsa Verde, and lime wedges (for serving)

Bon Appétit

Preheat oven to 500°. Roast cascabel, ancho, guajillo, and pasilla chiles on a rimmed baking sheet until completely blackened, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a large bowl and pour in cold water to cover; let sit 30 minutes to soften. Drain.

Meanwhile, roast jalapeños, garlic, and 4 tortillas on a clean rimmed baking sheet until blackened and charred, 12–15 minutes.

Heat a dry small skillet over medium-high and toast oregano and cumin seeds, tossing often, until beginning to burn, about 1 minute. Transfer oregano and cumin to a small bowl. Char cloves and allspice, tossing often, until black and ashy, about 4 minutes.

Purée softened chiles, tortillas, jalapeños, garlic, oregano, cumin seeds, cloves, allspice, orange juice, and salt in a blender until smooth. Place pork in a large bowl and pour adobo over (meat should be submerged). Cover and chill at least 6 hours and up to 12 hours.

Remove pork from adobo, leaving as much paste on meat as possible, and let sit at room temperature 1 hour.

Prepare a grill for medium-low heat. Grill pork, turning once after first 20 minutes, until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part registers 145°, 35–45 minutes. Transfer to a cutting board and let rest 15 minutes before thinly slicing.

Serve pork with tortillas, guacamole, Grilled Salsa Roja, Avocado-Tomatillo Salsa Verde, and lime wedges.

Don’t braise your short ribs—grill them. They’re intensely beefy, with gorgeous marbling that encourages crispy bits.

Coconut-Marinated Short Rib Kebabs With Peanut-Chile Oil

lemongrass

shallot,

garlic cloves, chopped

ginger, peeled, chopped

vegetable oil

guajillo or New Mexico chiles

red pepper flakes

peanuts

fish sauce

boneless beef short ribs

garlic cloves, finely grated

ginger, peeled, finely grated

coconut milk

brown sugar

lime juice

turmeric

Vegetable oil (for grill)

Kosher salt

Eight 8–12-inch-long metal skewers

Remove tough outer layers from lemongrass. Trim off top third of stalk; discard. Bruise remaining stalk by whacking a few times against a cutting board. Transfer lemongrass to a small saucepan and add shallot, garlic, ginger, oil, and salt and bring to a gentle simmer over medium heat. Cook, reducing heat as needed to keep at a low boil, until shallot is soft and just beginning to turn golden around edges, 15–20 minutes. Remove from heat and add chiles and red pepper flakes, pushing down with a spoon and stirring occasionally until chiles soften slightly. Purée in a blender until chiles are broken down to small flecks (be careful not to overprocess). Transfer to a small bowl; stir in peanuts and fish sauce.

Do Ahead: Peanut-chile oil can be made 1 week ahead. Cover and chill. Bring to room temperature before using.

To make them easier to slice, freeze ribs just until very firm around edges, 20–30 minutes.

Meanwhile, remove tough outer layers from lemongrass. Finely grate bottom third of stalk; discard remainder or freeze for another use. Combine lemongrass, garlic, ginger, coconut milk, fish sauce, brown sugar, lime juice, and turmeric in a large resealable plastic bag. Slice short ribs lengthwise against the grain into ¼"-thick strips and add to bag. Seal bag, pressing out air, and chill at least 2 hours and up to 2 days.

Prepare a grill for medium-high heat; oil grates. Remove beef from marinade, letting excess drip off. Thread onto 6–8 skewers, folding back and forth in accordion style; season lightly with salt. Grill, turning once, until browned and just cooked through, about 5 minutes. Serve beef with peanut-chile oil.

Garlic confit is the silky, spreadable cloves that adds a sweet punch of garlic to everything. Learn how to make this easy roasted garlic and infused oil.

Garlic Confit (Whole Roasted Garlic in Oil)

garlic (plus a few extra if small heads)

olive oil

tsp black peppercorns

thyme

bay leaves

Preheat the oven to 350°F and set a rack in the center. Cut off the top ½-inch of each garlic head and add cut-side up to a 10-inch cast iron skillet. Add the herbs, peppercorns, and chile and pour the olive oil on top of the heads.

Cover the skillet tightly with foil and roast until the garlic is soft, about 45–50 minutes. Raise the tempature to 400°F, remove the foil, and continue baking until the tops are browned, about 5 minutes more.

Remove the skillet from the oven and cool enough to handle easily. Separate the cloves and squeeze the pulp into a large heatproof jar. Discard the skin and herbs. Strain the oil over the cloves. Add additional oil to ensure the cloves are fully covered. Use immediately or refrigerate for up to 2 weeks.

Our best turkey chili recipe delivers major body and richness courtesy of dark ground turkey meat, a robust and concentrated chile purée, and a bottle of beer.

Better Turkey Chili

chicken broth

ancho chiles

guajillo chiles

pasilla chiles

chipotle chiles

lb. ground turkey, preferably dark meat

onions, finely chopped

garlic cloves, smashed

Tbsp. cumin

tomato paste

12-oz. bottle hard cider or lager-style beer

cinnamon stick

cannellini beans, drained, rinsed

Tbsp. maple syrup

plain Greek yogurt or sour cream

lime juice (from 1–2 limes)

cilantro leaves and stems, finely chopped

Tostadas (for serving)

You deserve an upgrade from that vintage bottle of chili powder lurking in the back of your cabinet. Let this hearty turkey chili recipe guide you. To make it, you’ll blend a robust purée of dried chiles and canned chipotles to serve as the soup’s base.
Building a custom chile blend allows you to create the chili of your dreams, which is to say: don’t worry too much if you can’t find the exact chiles we recommend. (And also, yes, chile and chili refer to different things.) Dark ancho chiles are smoky and have a raisiny sweetness; skinny, wrinkly pasillas a rich jamminess; and smooth-skinned guajillos bring bright red color and acidity. If you need to swap one out, aim for something around the same heat level (read more in our guide to chiles). Feel free to make a double batch and stick half in the freezer (for up to 6 months) to make satisfying your next weeknight chili craving even easier.
We prefer dark meat turkey for its richer flavor and fat content, but if all you have in the fridge is lean ground turkey or ground chicken, it’ll work. Brown it in batches to get a really good sear—the crusty fond that forms on the bottom of the pot is big-time flavor. When you sauté the veg, use a wooden spoon to scrape up all those bits (the steam from the veggies will help release them) and stir them into the mix. We love the flavor a bottle of hard cider or beer adds to chili, but if you’d rather cook without alcohol, substitute fresh apple cider, a can of crushed tomatoes or tomato juice, or add a cup more water instead.
We round out the soup with creamy white beans, but you probably already know any bean will do. Red kidney beans, pinto beans, and black beans are good substitutes. Like many comfort foods, chili is personal: put out bowls of shredded cheddar cheese, thinly sliced green onion, or pickled red onion, if you like. For an extra kick, grab the hot sauce or pickled jalapeños. Serve with broken tostadas or tortilla chips for scooping or cornbread for dunking.
Looking for ground beef chili or chicken chili? We have you covered.

Bring 4 cups low-sodium chicken broth to a simmer on stovetop in a large Dutch oven or other heavy large pot. Meanwhile, remove and discard stems from 3 large or 6 medium ancho chiles, 2 dried guajillo chiles, and 2 dried pasilla chiles. Tear flesh into a few pieces, letting seeds fall out. Transfer to a blender. Add hot broth and cover blender; let sit until chiles are softened, 25–30 minutes. Add 2 canned chipotle chiles in adobo and blend on high speed until smooth, about 1 minute; set aside.

Warm 2 Tbsp. oil in same pot over medium-high heat. Season turkey all over with salt. Add half of turkey to pot and smash down with a wooden spoon to flatten against surface of pot and break into smaller clumps. Cook, undisturbed, until underside is browned, top side is no longer pink, and most of the liquid is cooked off, 8–10 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to a plate. Repeat with another 2 Tbsp. oil and remaining turkey.

Heat remaining 2 Tbsp. vegetable oil in same pot over medium. Add 2 white or yellow onions, finely chopped and 5 garlic cloves, smashed; season with kosher salt and stir to combine. Cover pot and cook, stirring occasionally, until onions are translucent, very soft, and starting to brown around the edges, 10–12 minutes. Add 1 Tbsp. ground cumin and 2 tsp. dried oregano and cook, stirring frequently, until fragrant and sizzling, about 1 minute. Add 2 Tbsp. tomato paste and cook, stirring to coat vegetables, until paste darkens slightly, about 1 minute. Add one 12-oz. bottle hard cider or lager-style beer, one 3" cinnamon stick, and 2 bay leaves and scrape up any brown bits stuck to bottom of pot. Bring to a lively simmer and cook, stirring occasionally, until liquid is mostly reduced, about 5 minutes.

Add reserved chile purée, two 15.5-oz. cans cannellini beans, drained, rinsed, and 3 Tbsp. pure maple syrup. Add 4 cups water to blender, swish around to loosen any remaining purée, then pour into pot; season with salt. Bring to a boil, reduce heat to medium-low, and gently simmer, partially covered and stirring occasionally, until liquid is thickened and very flavorful, about 1 hour. Add turkey and simmer until flavors have melded, about 30 minutes longer.

Meanwhile, stir 1 cup plain Greek yogurt or sour cream, 2 Tbsp. fresh lime juice (from 1–2 limes), and a handful of cilantro leaves and stems, finely chopped in a small bowl to combine. Season to taste with salt.

Taste chili and season with kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper if needed. Remove from heat and fish out cinnamon stick and bay leaves. Divide chili among bowls. Top with a dollop of cilantro-lime sauce and some broken tostadas.
Do ahead: Chili (without toppings) can be made 3 days ahead and tastes even better the next day. Transfer to an airtight container and chill. Reheat over medium-low. 

Editor’s note: This recipe was first printed in January 2020. Head this way for more of our favorite winter soups →

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