gumbo file powder

The chefs Donald Link and Stephen Stryjewski serve this gumbo regularly at Cochon, their Cajun-Southern restaurant in New Orleans. Its ingredients depart significantly from traditional New Orleans restaurant gumbos, which almost never feature pork, legumes or greens, although those norms have changed in recent years, in part due to Cochon’s influence. As a rule, when seasoning gumbo, Mr. Link uses just 75 percent of the suggested spice portions at first, then adds the rest as desired according to taste. Since this recipe can produce varying results, depending on whether you’re using smoked pork butt from a local barbecue joint or a store-bought variety, home-cooked black-eyed peas or canned, braised collards or mustard greens, Mr. Link’s seasoning approach is particularly useful.

Black-Eyed Pea and Pork Gumbo

all-purpose flour

onion

green bell pepper

celery

garlic

pork or chicken stock, plus more as needed

gumbo filé powder

black pepper

white pepper

thyme

chile powder

sweet paprika

cayenne

bay leaves

lard oil

okra,

black-eyed peas

braised collard or mustard greens

smoked pork butt

Kosher salt

rice

In a large pot, heat the peanut or vegetable oil over medium-high. Slowly whisk in the flour and continue whisking until the roux turns dark red and begins to turn brown, 15 to 20 minutes.

For the roux:

Add the onion, bell pepper, celery and garlic to the roux and cook, stirring, until vegetables are softened, about 10 minutes. Add the stock, dried spices and bay leaves, and bring to a simmer, stirring occasionally. Simmer over medium-low, skimming occasionally, until flavors meld, at least 45 minutes.

In a large nonstick skillet, heat the lard or olive oil over medium-high. Add the okra and cook, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Set aside.

Taste the gumbo: It should not be pasty or taste overwhelmingly of the roux. If it does, you may need to add more stock, up to 4 cups. (The strength of starch in the flour can vary.) If you add more stock, start with just a cup, simmer and stir for a few minutes, and taste the gumbo again. Repeat as needed.

Stir the okra, black-eyed peas, greens and pork into the gumbo. Return to a simmer, season with salt and pepper and adjust the spices, if necessary. Serve over steamed rice or potato salad.

For the gumbo:

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