pearl onion

Meaty mushrooms simmered with pearl onions, wine and carrots make for a rich, wintry Bourguignon-style stew. The quality of the stock here makes a big difference, so if you’re not using homemade, buy a good brand. If you’re a meat eater, beef broth adds a familiar brawny character to this dish, but mushroom or vegetable broth work just well, especially because the whole dish is rounded out with a tamari for depth. For the best flavor, use as many kinds of mushrooms as you can get, and let them really brown when searing; that caramelization adds a lot of depth to the sauce. Maitake mushrooms give this a brisketlike texture, in a very good way.

Mushroom Bourguignon

butter or extra-virgin olive oil, plus more as needed

mushrooms,

salt and black pepper

leek

carrots, thinly sliced

garlic (2 minced, 1 grated to a paste)

tomato paste

all-purpose flour

dry red wine

beef, mushroom or vegetable broth

tamari or soy sauce, plus more to taste

thyme thyme

bay leaf

Smoked paprika,

Polenta, egg noodles

flat-leaf parsley,

Add 2 tablespoons butter or oil to a large Dutch oven or pot and set it over medium heat. When the fat is hot, stir in half the mushrooms and half the pearl onions. (If it doesn’t all fit in the pot in one layer, you might have to do this in three batches, rather than two.) Without moving them around too much, cook the mushrooms until they are brown on one side, about 3 minutes. Stir and let them brown on the other side, 2 to 3 minutes more. Use a slotted spoon to transfer mushrooms and onions to a large bowl or plate and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Repeat with another 2 tablespoons butter and the remaining mushrooms and pearl onions, seasoning them as you go.

Reduce heat to medium-low. Add another 1 tablespoon butter or oil to pan. Add leeks and carrot and sauté until the leeks turn lightly golden and start to soften, 5 minutes. Add the 2 minced garlic cloves and sauté for 1 minute longer. Stir in tomato paste and cook for 1 minute. Stir in flour and cook, stirring, for 1 minute, then add wine, broth, 1 tablespoon tamari, thyme and bay leaf, scraping up the brown bits at bottom of pot.

Add reserved cooked mushrooms and pearl onions back to the pot and bring to a simmer. Partly cover the pot and simmer on low heat until carrots and onions are tender and sauce is thick, 30 to 40 minutes. Taste and add more salt and tamari if needed. Stir in the grated garlic clove.

Just before serving, heat a small skillet over high heat and add 1/2 tablespoon butter or oil. Add half of the sliced chanterelles or oyster mushrooms and let cook without moving until they are crisp and brown on one side, 1 to 2 minutes. Flip and cook on the other side. Transfer to a plate and sprinkle with salt and smoked paprika. Repeat with remaining butter and mushrooms. Serve mushroom Bourguignon over polenta, noodles or mashed potatoes, topped with fried mushrooms and parsley.

Like coq au vin, its sister dish from the Burgundy region of France, beef Bourguignon is a stew of meat slowly simmered in hearty red wine along with pearl onions, mushrooms and crisp, cubed bacon. Use a good wine here, something simple but drinkable. It makes all the difference in the finished dish. As with all beef stews, this one is best made a day or two ahead; don’t sauté the mushrooms and onions until just before serving. This recipe is part of <a href="https://cooking.nytimes.com/new-essentials-french-cooking">The New Essentials of French Cooking</a>, a guide to definitive dishes every modern cook should master. <a href="https://store.nytimes.com/products/new-essentials-of-french-cooking">Buy the book.</a>

Beef Bourguignon

beef chuck

salt,

black pepper

pancetta

onion, finely chopped

carrot,

garlic cloves,

red wine

thyme

pearl onions, peeled (about 12 to 15 onions)

cremini mushrooms, halved if large (about 4 cups)

olive oil

sugar

Season beef with 2 teaspoons salt and 1/2 teaspoon pepper. Set aside for at least 30 minutes at room temperature, or chill in the refrigerator for up to 24 hours.

In a large Dutch oven or heavy-bottomed pot with a tightfitting lid, cook lardons over medium-low heat until fat is rendered and lardons are browned and crisp, about 10 to 15 minutes. Transfer with a slotted spoon to a paper towel-lined plate. Reserve fat in pot.

Heat oven to 350 degrees. Raise heat under pot to medium-high and cook until fat is starting to smoke. Lay half the beef cubes in a single layer in the pot, leaving space between pieces. Cook until well browned on all sides, 10 to 15 minutes; transfer pieces to a plate as they brown. Repeat with remaining beef.

Reduce heat, if necessary, to prevent burning. Stir in onion, carrot and remaining 1/4 teaspoon salt and cook until soft, about 10 minutes, stirring occasionally.

Stir in garlic and tomato paste, and cook for 1 minute. Stir in flour, cook for 1 minute, then add wine, bay leaf and thyme, scraping up brown bits at bottom of pot. Add browned beef and half the cooked lardons back to pot, cover, and transfer to oven. Let cook until beef is very tender, about 1 1/2 hours, turning meat halfway through.

Meanwhile, in a large skillet set over high heat, combine pearl onions, mushrooms, 1/4 cup water, the olive oil and a pinch each of salt, pepper and sugar. Bring to a simmer, then cover and reduce heat to medium, cooking for 15 minutes. Uncover, raise heat to high, and cook, tossing frequently, until vegetables are well browned, 5 to 7 minutes.

To serve, scatter onions and mushrooms and remaining cooked lardons over stew, then top with parsley.

A coq au vin is a classic French stew in which chicken is braised slowly in red wine and a little brandy to yield a supremely rich sauce filled with tender meat, crisp bits of bacon, mushrooms and burnished pearl onions. Traditional recipes call for a whole cut-up chicken, but using all dark meat gives you a particularly succulent dish without the risk of overcooked white meat. However, if you would rather substitute a whole cut-up bird, just add the breasts in the last 30 minutes of simmering. If you want to skip the croutons for garnish you can, but they do add a lovely, buttery crunch alongside the soft, simmered meat and vegetables. This recipe is part of <a href="https://cooking.nytimes.com/new-essentials-french-cooking">The New Essentials of French Cooking</a>, a guide to definitive dishes every modern cook should master. <a href="https://store.nytimes.com/products/new-essentials-of-french-cooking">Buy the book.</a>

Coq Au Vin

chicken legs and thighs

black pepper, more to taste

hearty red wine,

thyme leaves

extra-virgin olive oil, more as needed

onion,

brandy

unsalted butter

onions

white bread,

parsley,

Coq au Vin

Season chicken with 2 1/4 teaspoons salt and 1/2 teaspoon pepper. In a large bowl, combine chicken, wine, bay leaf and thyme. Cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours or, even better, overnight.

In a large Dutch oven or a heavy-bottomed pot with a tightfitting lid, cook lardons over medium-low heat until fat has rendered, and lardons are golden and crisp, 10 to 15 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer lardons to a paper-towel-lined plate, leaving rendered fat in pot.

Remove chicken from wine, reserving the marinade. Pat chicken pieces with paper towels until very dry. Heat lardon fat over medium heat until it’s just about to smoke. Working in batches if necessary, add chicken in a single layer and cook until well browned, 3 to 5 minutes per side. (Add oil if the pot looks a little dry.) Transfer chicken to a plate as it browns.

Add diced onion, carrot, half the mushrooms and the remaining 1/4 teaspoon salt to pot. Cook until vegetables are lightly browned, about 8 minutes, stirring up any brown bits from the pot, and adjusting heat if necessary to prevent burning.

Stir in garlic and tomato paste and cook for 1 minute, then stir in flour and cook for another minute. Remove from heat, push vegetables to one side of pot, pour brandy into empty side, and ignite with a match. (If you’re too nervous to ignite it, just cook brandy down for 1 minute.) Once the flame dies down, add reserved marinade, bring to a boil, and reduce halfway (to 1 1/2 cups), about 12 minutes. Skim off any large pockets of foam that form on the surface.

Add chicken, any accumulated juices and half the cooked lardons to the pot. Cover and simmer over low heat for 1 hour, turning halfway through. Uncover pot and simmer for 15 minutes to thicken. Taste and add salt and pepper, if necessary.

Meanwhile, melt 1 tablespoon butter and 2 tablespoons oil in a nonstick or other large skillet over medium-high heat. Add pearl onions, a pinch of sugar and salt to taste. Cover, reduce heat to low and cook for 15 minutes, shaking skillet often to move onions around. Uncover, push onions to one side of skillet, add remaining mushrooms, and raise heat to medium-high. Continue to cook until browned, stirring mushrooms frequently, and gently tossing onions occasionally, 5 to 8 minutes. Remove onions and mushrooms from skillet, and wipe it out.

In same skillet, melt 2 tablespoons butter and 1 tablespoon oil over medium heat until bubbling. Add bread and toast on all sides until golden, about 2 minutes per side. (Adjust heat if needed to prevent burning.) Remove from skillet and sprinkle with salt.

To serve, dip croutons in wine sauce, then coat in parsley. Add pearl onions, mushrooms and remaining half of the cooked lardons to the pot. Baste with wine sauce, sprinkle with parsley and serve with croutons on top.

A sumptuous braise in which chicken is simmered in red wine with bacon, onions and mushrooms.

Recipe: Coq au Vin

Creamed pearl onions with a sweet, mild flavor.

Creamed Pearl Onions Recipe

pearl onions (see note)

heavy cream

chicken stock

parsley leaves

Using a paring knife, trim off the ends of each onion and score a light "X" into one cut side. Bring a medium pot of water to a boil over high heat. Add onions and cook until outer layers are soft, about 1 1/2 minutes. Drain onions and run under cool water until cold enough to handle. Peel onions with your fingers and discard peels.

Place onions in a medium saucepan and add heavy cream, stock, and bay leaf. Heat over medium-high heat until simmering, then lower heat to maintain a very gently simmer. Cook, stirring occasionally, until cream has reduced to a rich sauce, about 20 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper, discard bay leaf, stir in parsley, and serve. If sauce breaks and turns greasy, stir in 2 tablespoons of water and shake pan vigorously over high heat until it comes back together.

All of the allure of pasta primavera (with none of the '80s vibes).

Chicken Primavera

½ tsp. freshly ground black pepper,

chicken breasts

¼ cup plus 1 Tbsp. grapeseed or vegetable oil

frozen pearl onions

garlic cloves, thinly sliced

chicken broth

lemon juice

peas peas

Dijon mustard

½ cup very coarsely chopped dill, divided

Shaved Parmesan (for serving; optional)

While pasta primavera can all too often seem like it’s stuck in the ’80s, the best versions highlight fresh quickly cooked spring vegetables bathed in a creamy—not claggy—sauce. And it turns out the primavera treatment is equally delicious when you swap the pasta for golden brown chicken cutlets. Think of the pearl onions, asparagus, and peas in this recipe only as a template—primavera means spring in Italian, so feel free to bring any and all of the season’s green vegetables into the mix. You can swap in fava beans, sugar snap peas, or even wild ramps. If you can’t find pearl onions (you want the frozen peeled ones), use chopped scallions or spring onions. One thing you really shouldn’t substitute here: the heavy cream. (Half-and-half will curdle when it mixes with the lemon juice in the pan sauce.) —Christian Reynoso

Bon Appétit

Whisk together ½ cup all-purpose flour, 1½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or 1 tsp. Morton kosher salt, and ½ tsp. freshly ground black pepper in a medium bowl; set aside.

Slice 2 large skinless, boneless chicken breasts (about 1½ lb. total), patted dry, on a cutting board in half lengthwise to create 4 cutlets. Working one at a time, gently pound each cutlet between 2 sheets of plastic wrap to about ½" thick. Transfer cutlets to reserved bowl of seasoned flour and toss to coat very well. Working one at a time, shake off excess flour and transfer cutlets to a plate.

Heat ¼ cup grapeseed or vegetable oil in a large skillet over medium-high. Add 2 cutlets to pan and cook, undisturbed, until golden brown underneath, about 3 minutes. Turn cutlets over and cook until golden brown on other sides, about 3 minutes. Transfer to a platter or plates and repeat with remaining 2 cutlets.

Remove pan from heat and carefully wipe out with a paper towel to remove most of the excess oil and browned bits. Add remaining 1 Tbsp. grapeseed or vegetable oil to pan and heat over medium. Add 5 oz. frozen pearl onions or 1½ cups coarsely chopped scallions (pale green and white parts only) and 5 garlic cloves, thinly sliced, and cook, stirring occasionally, until onions begin to turn translucent, about 4 minutes if using pearl onions or 2 minutes if using scallions. Add ½ cup heavy cream, ½ cup low-sodium chicken broth, and ⅓ cup fresh lemon juice. Bring to a simmer and cook until reduced by a third, about 3 minutes.

Add 8 oz. asparagus, woody ends trimmed, thinly sliced on a diagonal, and 1¼ cups shelled fresh peas (from about 1¼ lb. pods) or frozen peas and cook, stirring, until asparagus is crisp-tender, about 2 minutes. Mix in 1 tsp. Dijon mustard followed by ¼ cup very coarsely chopped dill; season with salt.

Spoon vegetables and sauce over cutlets. Season with more pepper and top with shaved Parmesan (if using) and remaining ¼ cup very coarsely chopped dill.

Cozy beans are just what you need to kickstart fall. Serve with crusty bread to soak up all the saucy bits.

Oniony Brothy Beans

extra-virgin olive oil or vegetable oil

white onions,

Tbsp.

tsp. black pepper

thyme leaves,

vegetable broth

rice vinegar

cannellini (white kidney) beans, rinsed

Tbsp. white vinegar

crusty country-style bread, toasted (for serving)

Don’t be surprised that the humble onion builds the base for this incredibly flavorful broth. Onion wedges get seared on their flat sides, giving deep, savory allium notes before the pot gets deglazed with broth and seasoned rice vinegar, adding an acidic punch. Creamy beans and pearl onions soak up all the flavor as they cook. (We highly recommend a loaf of crusty bread to mop up all the goodness at the bottom of the bowl). White beans like cannellini work especially well here, but feel free to use whatever beans you have in your pantry. This is the perfect bowl to curl up on your couch with on a crisp fall evening.

Heat 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil or vegetable oil in a large Dutch oven or other heavy pot over medium-high. Add 2 large white onions, cut through root ends into 1"-thick wedges, sprinkle with 1 Tbsp. Diamond Crystal or 1¾ tsp. Morton kosher salt, and cook, undisturbed, until golden brown underneath, about 5 minutes. Turn onions over and cook until golden brown on other side, about 5 minutes.

Add 5 garlic cloves, thinly sliced, 1 tsp. freshly ground black pepper, and 1½ tsp. thyme leaves to pot; stir to combine. Pour in 4 cups low-sodium vegetable broth and ¾ cup seasoned rice vinegar and bring to a simmer, stirring and scraping up browned bits with a wooden spoon. Stir in two 15-oz. cans cannellini (white kidney) beans, rinsed, 8 oz. frozen white pearl onions (about 1½ cups), 1 Tbsp. distilled white vinegar, and 2 cups water. Return to a simmer and cook, stirring occasionally, until beans, white onions, and pearl onions are very tender and flavors have melded, 35–40 minutes. Taste and add more salt if needed.

Ladle beans into bowls; top with more thyme. Serve with slices of crusty country-style bread, toasted for dipping.
Do Ahead: Beans can be made 1 day ahead. Let cool; cover and chill.

Active time: 1 1/4 hr Start to finish: 2 hr

Creamed Pearl Onions

lb white pearl onions

salt

cloves

water

flat-leaf parsley

Epicurious

Blanch onions in a large pot of boiling water 2 minutes, then drain and peel.

Heat butter in a deep 12-inch heavy skillet over moderate heat until foam subsides, then cook onions, stirring occasionally, until golden in patches, about 8 minutes. Add sugar, salt, cloves, and enough water to cover onions and simmer, covered, until onions are tender but not falling apart, 25 to 30 minutes. Boil onions, uncovered, until liquid is reduced to about 1/2 cup, about 20 minutes more.

Stir in cream and simmer, stirring, until slightly thickened, about 5 minutes. Discard cloves, then season with salt and pepper. Stir in parsley just before serving.

Balsamic- and Dijon-Glazed Ham with Roasted Pearl Onions Recipe

Balsamic- and Dijon-Glazed Ham with Roasted Pearl Onions

pearl onions

(packed) dark brown sugar

balsamic vinegar

(1/2 stick) butter, diced

Cook onions in large pot of boiling salted water 2 minutes; drain. Trim root ends, leaving base intact. Peel. DO AHEAD Can be made 1 day ahead. Cover and refrigerate.

Preheat oven to 325°F. Combine sugar, vinegar and mustard in bowl for glaze. Transfer onions to 11x7x2-inch glass baking dish. Add 2/3 cup glaze, butter, 1 teaspoon salt, 1/4 teaspoon pepper and 1/2 cup water; toss to coat. Cover with foil.

Line large roasting pan with foil. Making 1/2-inch-deep slits, score ham with diamond pattern. Place ham in pan and roast 45 minutes. Place onions in oven. Roast ham and onions 25 minutes. Uncover onions. Continue roasting onions and ham 50 minutes.

Baste ham with some of glaze. Continue to roast ham and onions until deep brown and glazed, brushing ham with glaze every 10 minutes, about 30 minutes longer. Transfer ham to large platter. Transfer onion mixture to bowl. Serve ham, passing onion mixture separately.

Treat this beef pot pie recipe as a weekend project (quick it’s not) and your Sunday supper will be off the charts.

Beef Bourguignonne Pot Pie

beef chuck,

bacon

carrot, peeled, finely chopped

garlic clove, finely chopped

parsley

thyme, leaves

star anise pod

crimini mushrooms,

pearl onions, peeled

puff pastry

egg,

¾-inch-diameter cookie cutter or pastry tip

Treat this beef pot pie as a weekend project (quick it’s not) and your Sunday supper will be off the charts.

Place a rack in lower third of oven; preheat to 400°. Heat oil in a large heavy pot over medium-high. Season ½ cup flour with salt and pepper. Add beef and toss to coat; shake off excess. Working in batches as needed to avoid steaming meat, cook beef, turning often, until browned all over, 8–10 minutes per batch. Transfer to a plate.

Cook bacon in same pot, stirring often, until brown and crisp. Add ¼ cup water and cook, scraping up browned bits, then add onion, leek, and carrot and cook, stirring occasionally, until vegetables are starting to soften, about 5 minutes. Stir in garlic and parsley and return beef to pot. Add brandy and simmer until liquid is almost completely evaporated, about 1 minute. Add thyme leaves, bay leaf, star anise, broth, and wine and season with salt and pepper; bring to a simmer.

Mix 1 Tbsp. flour and 1 Tbsp. butter in a small bowl until smooth; stir into meat mixture. Cover pot and braise in oven until beef is very tender, 1–1½ hours.

Melt remaining 4 Tbsp. butter in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add mushrooms and pearl onions and cook, stirring, until browned, 8–10 minutes. Stir in lemon juice; season with salt and pepper. Add mushrooms and onions to stew, cover pot, and return to oven. Cook until onions are very tender, 25–30 minutes. Let stew cool.

Meanwhile, working with one at a time, roll out pastry sheets on a lightly floured surface until about 4” larger than baking dish (use a 2-qt. oval or an 8” square). Place 1 sheet on a parchment-lined baking sheet and chill. Transfer remaining sheet to baking dish. Lift up edge and let dough slump down into dish. Trim, leaving about 1” overhang. Transfer stew to baking dish. Brush edge of pastry with egg.

Using a cutter, punch out a circle in the center of chilled pastry. Drape pastry over filling and trim to a 1” overhang. Press edges of dough together to seal and fold overhang under. Crimp edge, then brush top of pastry with egg.

Bake until crust is deep golden brown, 30–35 minutes. Let pie cool slightly.

Do Ahead: Stew can be made 2 days ahead. Cover and chill.

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Beef Bourguignonne Pot Pie

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Mushroom Bourguignon

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Coq Au Vin

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Beef Bourguignonne Pot Pie

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