Step 1

Put the pastry on a large sheet of greaseproof paper and roll it out a little to make a 26cm x 40cm rectangle.

Step 2

Using the paper to help you, lift the pastry on to a large tray and chill until required.

Step 3

Grate 20g of the cheese into the small bowl of a food processor, add the rosemary, garlic, lemon zest, anchovies, anchovy oil, aleppo chilli and a generous grind of pepper, then blitz until almost smooth.

Step 4

Spread out this mixture on to half of the pastry along one of its short sides, then fold over the pastry to make a 26cm x 20cm envelope.

Step 5

Roll it out again, this time to make a roughly 30cm x 22cm rectangle.

Step 6

Brush the top with water, grate 20g of the remaining cheese on top, then fold in half to make a 15cm x 22cm rectangle.

Step 7

Roll out the pastry once again, this time into a 36cm x 22cm rectangle, brush with more water, then grate on the final 15g of cheese.

Step 8

Generously grind over some more pepper and, using your hands, press the cheese and pepper down into the pastry.

Step 9

Cut the pastry into 24 1½cm-wide strips and arrange these on two lined baking trays so they’re 2cm apart.

Step 10

Holding one end of each strip, twist it into a tight spiral, then push both ends into the paper, so the straw sticks to it.

Step 11

Chill for 30 minutes, to firm up. Meanwhile, heat the oven to 200C (180C fan)/390F/gas 6.

Step 12

Bake the straws for 22-25 minutes, until the cheese has crisped up and the pastry is golden, then leave to cool on a wire rack before serving.