Step 1

Heat the oven to 450°F with a rack in the middle position. In a large bowl, whisk together the cornmeal, sugar, baking powder, baking soda and salt. In a 1-quart liquid measuring cup or medium bowl, whisk together the buttermilk and eggs.

Step 2

In a 10-inch cast-iron skillet over medium, heat the butter, stirring, until it begins to smell nutty, about 4 minutes. Pour 6 tablespoons of the butter into the dry ingredients, leaving about 2 tablespoons in the pan; set the skillet off the heat. Whisk the buttermilk-egg mixture into the dry ingredients until smooth.

Step 3

Return the skillet to medium and cook the remaining butter, stirring, until the milk solids are toasted and browned, about 2 minutes. Coat the sides of the skillet with butter by either swirling the pan or with a brush. Pour in the batter and cook, without stirring, until bubbling at the edges, about 1 minute. Transfer to the oven and bake until light golden brown and a toothpick inserted at the center comes out with few crumbs attached, 15 to 18 minutes.

Step 4

Transfer the skillet to a wire rack (the handle will be hot). Cool for about 5 minutes, then invert the cornbread onto the rack, removing the pan. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Step 5

Chipotle-Honey Butter: In a medium bowl, combine 113 grams (8 tablespoons) salted butter (room temperature), 2 tablespoons honey, 1 tablespoon minced chipotle chili in adobo sauce plus 2 teaspoons adobo sauce and a pinch of kosher salt. Whip with a hand mixer on medium-high speed, scraping the bowl as needed, until light and fluffy, about 2 minutes. Serve at room temperature.

Step 6

Jalapeño-Scallion Butter: In a medium bowl, combine 113 grams (8 tablespoons) salted butter (room temperature), 2 scallions (thinly sliced), 1 small jalapeño chili (stemmed, seeded and minced), 1 teaspoon grated lime zest plus 1 teaspoon lime juice, ¼ teaspoon ground black pepper and a pinch of kosher salt. Whip with a hand mixer on medium-high speed, scraping the bowl as needed, until light and fluffy, about 2 minutes. Serve at room temperature.