Step 1

Roughly chop or quarter about 80% of the cherries (you don't have to be exact here), leaving the rest a combination of whole cherries and halves.

Step 2

In a wide, deep, non-reactive pot or pan, combine cherries, sugar, and lemon juice and zest. Stir and let stand for 15-20 minutes, until the cherries have begun to release their juices.

Step 3

Place a few saucers or small plates in the freezer; you'll use them later to test for doneness.

Step 4

Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, stirring often so the sugars don't scorch on the bottom of the pan. Continue boiling until the liquids have reduced and started to thicken. To reach the "gel" stage, the sugars need to reach 220-224 degrees F on a candy thermometer. This usually takes me about 30 minutes, but the time can vary by the fruit, your stove, and cookware.

Step 5

To test for doneness, take the preserves off of the heat and pour a spoonful of the preserves' liquid onto one of the chilled plates. Pop it back in the freezer for a few minutes. Nudge the liquid with your finger. If it wrinkles, the preserves are ready. If it doesn't continue cooking in 5-minute increments, until the liquid passes the wrinkle test.

Step 6

Ladle the preserves into clean jars, leaving 1/2-inch at the top of the jar to allow for expansion if freezing. Cool at room temperature and then refrigerate or freeze, tightly covered. Preserves will keep for up to a few weeks in the refrigerator or a few months in the freezer.*