Step 1

Whisk the flour, cocoa, espresso (if using), spices, baking soda and salt together.

Step 2

Working with a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, or in a large bowl with a hand mixer, beat the butter and both sugars together on medium-low speed for about 3 minutes, scraping the bowl as needed, until fully blended. Add the yolk and beat for 1 minute, then add the molasses and vanilla, beating until smooth. Turn off the mixer, add the dry ingredients all at once and pulse the mixer until the risk of flying flour passes. Working on low speed, mix the dough until the flour is almost but not completely incorporated. Add the crystallized ginger (or the sugared fresh ginger) and chocolate and mix until the dry ingredients disappear into the dough and the ginger and chocolate are evenly distributed. If you’ve got bits of dry ingredients on the bottom of the bowl, mix them in with a flexible spatula.

Step 3

Gather the dough into a ball, flatten it and wrap it in plastic. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours.

Step 4

When you’re ready to bake, position the racks to divide the oven into thirds and preheat it to 350 degrees F. Butter or spray regular muffin tins or, if making freeform cookies, line two baking sheets with parchment paper or silicone baking mats.

Step 5

Have a medium cookie scoop at hand. Alternatively, you can use a rounded tablespoonful of dough for each cookie. If you’re using tins, find a jar or glass that fits into them and can be used to flatten the dough; wrap the bottom in plastic wrap. Spoon some sugar into a wide shallow bowl.

Step 6

For each cookie, mold a scoop or spoonful of dough into a ball between your palms, then turn it in the sugar to coat and put in a muffin cup or on a baking sheet, leaving a couple of inches between each ball of dough. If using tins, use the jar or glass to flatten each ball until it almost reaches the sides of the cup. If it’s freeform, press to flatten to about 1/2-inch thick.

Step 7

Bake the cookies for about 13 minutes, rotating the pans top to bottom and front to back after 7 minutes. The cookies should be lightly set around the edges and softer in the center. Transfer the sheets or tins to racks and let the cookies rest for 15 minutes before unmolding them and/or placing them on racks to cool completely.

Step 8

If you’re baking in batches, make certain to start with cool tins or baking sheets.