Use a pair of sharp kitchen scissors to cut the dried chillies into small pieces. Heat the oil in a wok or frying pan and fry the chillies and peppercorns over low heat until they are fragrant and the chillies have turned a deep red. Keep moving the chillies and be extremely careful not to burn them. Allow to cool, then crush using a mortar and pestle. Transfer to a bowl.Place the fresh chillies, garlic and ginger in a food processor and blitz to combine.Warm the oil in a small saucepan and add the chilli mixture. Fry over low heat until the moisture evaporates, 5–6 minutes. Allow to cool, then stir through the salt and sugar. Combine this mixture with the dried chilli mixture in a heatproof bowl and set aside.Pour the oil into a large saucepan that can hold double its volume (as the oil will bubble up) and place over medium heat. Add the spring onion and ginger and fry until golden, then remove from the oil and discard.Add the star anise and cardamom to the oil and fry over low heat until fragrant. At this point, the oil should be very hot. Pour half the oil over the chilli mixture and stir. Wait 5–6 minutes for the oil to cool slightly, then pour the remaining oil over the chilli mixture.Once the chilli oil is completely cooled, remove the star anise and cardamom and discard. Cover the oil and leave overnight at room temperature.The next day, the oil should have turned a dark red colour. Pour into a sterilised airtight container or jar and store in a cool dark place for up to 3 months.To make the congee, wash the rice vigorously and rinse it until the water runs clear.Bring 8 cups (2 litres) water to the boil in a large saucepan, then add the rice. Stir and reduce the heat to a simmer. Continue cooking for 45 minutes, until the rice grains burst open and melt into the water. Stir the congee during the last few minutes of cooking to further break up the grains. Allow to stand for 10 minutes.To make the fish congee, place the congee in a large saucepan and bring to the boil. Add the sliced fish, cover and turn off the heat. Allow to stand for 10 minutes.Turn the heat back on to medium–low, add the salt and simmer for 3–4 minutes. The fish should be perfectly cooked. Divide the congee between four bowls and garnish with spring onion and ginger. Serve with soy sauce and chilli oil.Notes• Enjoy plain congee hot – either just as it is – or with a sprinkle of salt, white pepper and julienned ginger. Congee can also be served as an accompaniment to any other dishes, or with toppings of your choice.• Try the chilli oil on avocado and feta toast, on pasta, or mixed with Chinkiang black vinegar and soy sauce for a classic dumpling dipping sauce.Chinese-ish by Rosheen Kaul and Joanna Hu, published by Murdoch Books. (RRP $39.99). Photography by Armelle Habib.