Gougeres with Savory Mushroom Filling

Step 1

Preheat your oven to 450F and set a rack in the middle. Be proud of yourself that you remembered to do this first.

Step 2

Bring the water, milk, salt, Herbes de Provence and butter to a boil.

Step 3

Dump in the flour all at once and cook over medium heat, stirring manically, until the mixture resembles mashed potatoes, pulls away from the sides of the pan and into a big clump and leaves a slight, dry film on the inside of the pan, about 2-3 minutes.

Step 4

Transfer to the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment or prepare to stir madly awhile longer.

Step 5

Mix for a minute or so to cool off the dough, then add almost all the beaten egg (reserve about a Tablespoon) and mix in thoroughly. Test to see if batter runs very slowly off the end of the beater and ends in a point. If it doesn't flow or it ends in a raggedy point, add the rest of the egg and beat it in. You should be good to go.

Step 6

Thoroughly mix in 2/3 of the grated cheese.

Step 7

Drop about 2 teaspoons of the dough into tiny mounds on a Silpat- or parchment-lined baking sheet. Leave about 1" of space between each wee mound. You can pipe them if you want, but it goes quickly with spoons too.

Step 8

With a wet finger, press down any little points of dough that might be sticking up.

Step 9

Divide the last ounce of cheese evenly among the wee gougeres and bake for ten minutes.

Step 10

Reduce the heat to 375F and bake another 10 minutes. You may need to cover the pan loosely with foil at the five-minute mark.

Step 11

Reduce the heat to 325F and bake for another 10 minutes for a total of 30 minutes.

Step 12

Turn off the oven, crack the door open and let the gougeres cool to just warm.

Step 13

Fill each puff with about 1-2 teaspoons of the bechamel aux champignons.

Step 14

Melt the butter over medium heat. When it's sizzling, add the flour.

Step 15

Stir well and cook, stirring occasionally, for 2-3 minutes or until it's a golden blonde color. Lightly season with salt and pepper.

Step 16

Pour in the milk slowly, whisking all the while to prevent lumps.

Step 17

Bring the mixture to a boil, whisking frequently.

Step 18

When it comes to a boil, reduce the heat and keep it at a low simmer, whisking occasionally, until it has thickened.

Step 19

Put the bechamel in your blender and add the duxelles. Blend on low speed. It doesn't have to be completely smooth, but it needs to be smooth enough that you can pipe it without little bits getting stuck in your piping tip. Cool to warm.

Step 20

Mince the mushrooms very finely in the bowl of your food processor. If you have a mini one, now would be the perfect time to use it.

Step 21

Melt half the butter over medium high heat. Add the mushrooms, seasoning with salt and pepper, and stir until they release their juices. Cook some more, stirring, until the mushrooms are dry again and have darkened in color.

Step 22

Add the second half of the butter along with the minced shallot and the thyme.

Step 23

Cook until the shallots have softened.

Step 24

Add the wine and cook until dry.