Step 1

Make the egg batter: Crack the eggs into a large bowl; add the milk, salt, and sugar, if using; and whisk very well to combine.

Step 2

Break the matzo: Break one sheet of matzo into 1/2-inch pieces or smaller, letting any tiny pieces fall into the bowl of egg batter. Repeat with the remaining matzo, 1 sheet at a time.

Step 3

Soak the matzo mixture: Mix well and let stand for 10 to 12 minutes so that the matzo absorbs the egg mixture. Mix well again. The matzo should be soft and pliable.

Step 4

Cook the matzo brei: Heat a 10- to 12-inch skillet over moderately high heat, add the butter, and let it melt. When the butter has melted and the foam subsides, swirl the butter in the pan to coat. Add half of the matzo mixture and cook, stirring gently and occasionally, as you would when making scrambled eggs. Cook for about 3 minutes, breaking it up into smaller and larger chunks, until the matzo mixture has begun to brown lightly. Transfer to a platter, cover and keep warm. Add the remaining matzo to the pan and cook the same way. Serve immediately.