Step 1

Crack the eggs into a large mixing bowl, season with the salt and pepper, and beat with a fork or wire whisk until blended, 20 to 30 seconds.

Step 2

Smear the bottom and sides of a heavy-bottomed saucepan or skillet with the butter. Pour in the whipped eggs and set over moderately low heat. Stir slowly and continuously with a rubber spatula or wooden spoon, reaching all over the bottom of the pan. (Nothing will seem to happen for 2 to 5 minutes as the eggs gradually heat. Then, suddenly, they will begin to thicken into a custard.)

Step 3

Stir rapidly, moving pan on and off the heat, until the eggs have almost thickened to a soft, creamy consistency, 3 to 5 minutes. Remove from the heat, as they will continue to thicken slightly.

Step 4

Just as soon as they are of the right consistency, stir in the butter or cream, which will stop the cooking. Season to taste, turn out onto a warm platter, garnish with parsley, and serve immediately.