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Step 1
If you can't find toasted sesame seeds: In a small skillet, dry toast the sesame seeds until fragrant and lightly golden in color. Remove from heat and cool.
Step 2
Crush the sumac and salt with the mortar and pestle (or in a small bowl and the end of a wooden spoon). Add the thyme, oregano and optional dried cilantro and grind together. Stir in the sesame seeds and mix thoroughly. Taste, and adjust to taste with a bit more salt, or sumac.
Step 3
Store in an airtight container. This makes about 1 cup.